new install os a single pipe system

Steamhead

is take some pics of that Magee and post them right here!

The Magee #277 had a net rating of 1300 square feet of steam radiation according to the Hydronic Rating Handbook. Sounds like you have a fairly large system here- and you'll have to measure up each radiator on the system to see how much radiation is actually there. Get Dan's book "E.D.R." for radiator rating charts if you don't already have it.

Look also for capped risers or plugged tees which would indicate some radiation has been removed. If you find any, use a 50% pickup factor to size the new boiler rather than 33% since you have more piping in relation to the existing radiation.

Do not size the new boiler the same as the old one. The Magee was probably oversized to provide a bigger firebox, so the owner would not have to shovel coal as often.

Next, look at the vents on the ends of the steam mains. These are crucial to proper steam distribution. They should be big enough to vent all the air in the mains in about a minute. If you measure the length and diameter of each main, we can tell you what it needs.

The "A" dimension should not be a problem, since the new boiler's waterline will likely be lower than the Magee's and all the returns are dry.

Follow the manufacturer's piping diagram to the letter! Do not scrimp on the piping around the boiler- this will only cause problems. Modern steam boilers need proper headers, equalizers and Hartford Loops to work properly.

If you haven't done so already, get a copy of Dan's "The Lost Art of Steam Heating". You can order it and "E.D.R." on the Books and More page of this site.

As to what brand of boiler to install, you really can't go wrong with any of the major brands. Most of the ones I've seen have AFUEs of 81-85%. A good boiler is a good boiler- it's the installation that makes all the difference!


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Brian Hauck

Single pipe steam

I am bidding a single pipe parallel dry return system.The boilers a Magee #277 built in 1892.Its a 325000 btuh burnamatic burner on it.can i get some help or suggestions on what type of boiler to put in. High eff? what about my dimension A i have never done one of these before Thanks Brian

Brian Hauck

Single pipe steam

I am bidding a single pipe parallel dry return system.The boilers a Magee #277 built in 1892.Its a 325000 btuh burnamatic burner on it.can i get some help or suggestions on what type of boiler to put in. High eff? what about my dimension A I have never done one of these before Thanks Brian

Brian Hauck

Single pipe steam

I am bidding a single pipe parallel dry return system.The boilers a Magee #277 built in 1892.Its a 325000 btuh burnamatic burner on it.can i get some help or suggestions on what type of boiler to put in. High eff? what about my dimension A I have never done one of these before Thanks Brian

Brian Hauck

Single pipe steam

I am bidding a single pipe parallel dry return system.The boilers a Magee #277 built in 1892.Its a 325000 btuh burnamatic burner on it.can i get some help or suggestions on what type of boiler to put in. High eff? what about my dimension A I have never done one of these before Thanks Brian

kevin

ditto!

nm

Brian Hauck

Single pipe steam

I will seed pictures of the magee #277 when i go back out to the job.I have a few new questions I have a single pipe parrallel dry return system, I"am going to install a new boiler should I add a condensate pump to the system or a pump trap?. I know i need a hartford loop Equalizer and a header. I bought the E.D.R book and I have the lost art anything else I should look for or do. Thanks Brian

Steamhead

You shouldn't need a pump

if the old system didn't have one. Make sure your vents are right and you won't need to generate as much steam to fill the system.

Pipe the header, equalizer and Hartford Loop according to the instructions that come with the boiler. Every detail of this piping means something and will cause problems if you leave it out.

Pipe the drip lines from the dry returns below the boiler's waterline and then connect them together, then come up into your Hartford Loop. This will eliminate the possibility of steam crossing over from one return into the other, which can cause banging.

Can't wait to see the Magee! Where is this job located?

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J.C.A.

No question, Steamhead got this one right.

Believe him ! The manufacturer has had LOTS of time to try all the different piping arrangements, and the ones posted are the ones that work. Stay true to their methods, and your covered in case of "unanticipated problems" .

I wholeheartedly agree to doing the complete heat loss , cause most of the oldtimers DID oversize boilers for just the reason you were told . Lots of water in those old beasts , and the new stuff has nowhere near the forgiveness factor that an old "percolating boiler" had.
We are now making steam in about a 10th of the time it "used to take" , so near boiler piping is critical!

Can't wait to see the photos. Chris