PAINTING RADIATORS

JOE HENNESSEY

I KNOW THIS HAS BEEN DISCUSSED IN THE PAST,BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER THE ANSWERS I'VE READ... WHAT IS THE BEST COLOR AND THE TYPE PAINT SHOULD WE TELL THE HOMEOWNERS TO USE ON THEIR "DEAD MEN" INSTALLED RADIATORS.. WE HAVE MANY EARLY CENTURY SYSTEMS IN THE AREA AND HAVE THE PLEASURE OF WORKING ON ALOT OF THEM...

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Good old paper

elsewhere on this site.

In digest, color/type of paint affect ONLY the radiant output and only the FINAL coat matters. Flat black is theoretically the best for radiation and aluminum-containing metallic the worst. Old "bronzing" paints did actually contain bronze and other metals. New versions are made from mica and no-one really knows if it affects radiation to the same degree.

Alkyd (paint) really should be used--NEVER use latex over bare cast iron as it will rust almost immediately. With plain pigmented paint you can tell them to use any color they like. As always, flat finishes are more difficult to clean than satin or gloss.

If they want a new version of an old finish, they can make their own "paint" using mica pigments www.sinopiaonline.com (or big city art stores) and drying oil. Boiled linseed oil works OK if you add some cobalt drier. Bronzing fluid is available from a few sources as are more exotic drying oils, but they are significantly more expensive. A good formula for is: 4-8 oz mica pigment (amount you need varies with color); 8 oz boiled linseed oil; scant ounce cobalt drier. Use 1-2 coats applied with a SOFT brush in a SINGLE STROKE. Angled radiator brushes are great but are generally too large for tube-type radiators. In that case you can make your own from a 1" or so soft synthetic artist's brush with a HOLLOW ferrule. Bend the ferrule with long-nose vice grips or similar.