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radiant bath photos s.milne

ScottMP
ScottMP Member Posts: 5,883
With radiant floor under the cast iron whirlpool and under the master shower.

The one shot is of the base for the cast iron tub, which will have radiant under it and around the shelf.

The other shot is the tiled shower stall.

MMmmmm goona be a nice warm room. Wish it was mine :(

Scott

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Comments

  • Hey Scott

    What brand of radiant and wood track did you use there ? Very nice work . Ive been trying to get a price for Quicktrac from my suppliers , but it seems to be not such a hot seller around here yet .
  • Eric Taylor_3
    Eric Taylor_3 Member Posts: 27
    Love it!

    I just can't get enough of these install pics that you folks post. The quality of workmanship that is represented on this site is almost staggering. I'm sure no one would post anything that they weren't proud of, but even so it is very obvious that you all are extreamly passionate about your work. It is very refreshing to see this, and I hope it becomes an epidemic!

    Eric
  • Don_2
    Don_2 Member Posts: 47
    To bad

    The duct man is not has proud of his work has scott is.
    Hey scott maybe you can talk them into some hard pipe before that tub goes in.That mylar flex doesn't hold up to well. Hate to see them pulling out the tub to replace that flex in another five years. Fine job scott!!!
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
    \"Noodle\" duct

    (BTW, nice neat well-planned work, Scott)

    What problems besides vermine? Must admit that I actually like the stuff for some applications. Seems less prone to leakage, nicely insulated and less restrictive for routes.

    It seems to be doing fine in my store/bar (an old brick "downtown-type" building. Has been there for nearly 20 years. Bar upstairs with ducts in ceiling where it experiences exceedingly high temp in the summer. Still seems in "like new" condition whenever we work above the drop ceiling.
  • Bob_7
    Bob_7 Member Posts: 2
    attachment photo

    Are you concerned about drying out the wax ring for the toilet with the Stadler tubing running so close?
    Otherwise, nice looking job.
  • Don_2
    Don_2 Member Posts: 47
    Noodle duct

    That a good name, Mike if you got 20 years out of mylar
    then you got yours money worth. Attic and crawlspaces
    around here it becomes dryrotted. I have seen the plastic
    thats wrap with the spring completely come apart and the duct collapse.Not to mention the pressure drop thru a piece of flex is greater then what it is thru a piece of pipe.
    The point I was trying to make is what chance do they have if they have to make a repair.And looking at that noodle duct it will not be long.No ductseal,or panduit straps,but
    then again its duct work,anybody can do it.
  • Jamie Pompetti
    Jamie Pompetti Member Posts: 82
    What can I say?

    You and your guys get better every photo! I was curious what type of radiant panel that was and what type of tubing you used? Also did you guys install all the panels or did a carpenter do it? How long does that type of install take? And how cost effective for the homeowner is it? I guess cheaper then a wet-bed install?

    Talk to you soon,
    Jamie
  • Jamie Pompetti
    Jamie Pompetti Member Posts: 82
    Bob

    I don't think that location is for a toilet! It looks more like a shower drain to me because it has a hot and cold water supply pipes. Maybe they still have to build a wall.

    Jamie
  • Frank_3
    Frank_3 Member Posts: 112
    Question for you, Scott...

    Do you draw out the tubing layout before hand or just wing it as you go along? I've drawn my floor layout in Autocad and it was a nightmare getting the tubing lengths to be reasonably matched on each circuit off the manifold.

    Just wondering what method you use.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928
    At closer look...

    ...that noodle does look especially weak. It's not properly extended and the insulation poking out is a VERY bad sign.

    While it amazes me that mylar (of all plastics) could possibly "dry rot" I'll take you at your word--termites actually tunnel through rigid foam...

  • ScottMP
    ScottMP Member Posts: 5,883
    we wing it ..

    We know that the sg footage is and use that for our loop length along with maximum length.

    Jamies right that is a drain for the shower stall which will have a copper pan and tile. Thats gonna be a nice warm floor. We also roughed in for a towel warmer.

    The tubing is Stadler and Stadler climate panel. They were the first to come out with this product.

    On a larger size job we might ash Stadler for a drawing.

    I don't have a photo of the W.C. but we stayed plenty far away.

    This job was done by Steve Regan and Darrel Robertson. Nice neat work guys.

    Scott

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  • joel_14
    joel_14 Member Posts: 116
    Nice ,and answers

    He is using Stadler Climate Panel the wisbro is the same exact stuff. we've been doing it since the early 90s when it came out. it is the best for that type of install. Yes, it is thinner than concrete , and yes for small project like that it is less exspense and hassle compared to concrete , and it works excellent.
  • JimGPE
    JimGPE Member Posts: 22
    Metal duct in a damp atmosphere?

    I'm not crazy about the flex duct either, although I use QUITE a bit of it in commercial jobs. The key is, it is accessible and can easily be replaced.

    I agree - I'd hate to see the flex duct pop a seam and need to be replaced.

    My concern with the metal duct would be corrosion in such a moist atmosphere. Suggest aluminum duct? Or PVC coated?

This discussion has been closed.