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radiant bath photos s.milne
ScottMP
Member Posts: 5,883
With radiant floor under the cast iron whirlpool and under the master shower.
The one shot is of the base for the cast iron tub, which will have radiant under it and around the shelf.
The other shot is the tiled shower stall.
MMmmmm goona be a nice warm room. Wish it was mine :(
Scott
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The one shot is of the base for the cast iron tub, which will have radiant under it and around the shelf.
The other shot is the tiled shower stall.
MMmmmm goona be a nice warm room. Wish it was mine :(
Scott
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=237&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
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Comments
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Hey Scott
What brand of radiant and wood track did you use there ? Very nice work . Ive been trying to get a price for Quicktrac from my suppliers , but it seems to be not such a hot seller around here yet .0 -
Love it!
I just can't get enough of these install pics that you folks post. The quality of workmanship that is represented on this site is almost staggering. I'm sure no one would post anything that they weren't proud of, but even so it is very obvious that you all are extreamly passionate about your work. It is very refreshing to see this, and I hope it becomes an epidemic!
Eric0 -
To bad
The duct man is not has proud of his work has scott is.
Hey scott maybe you can talk them into some hard pipe before that tub goes in.That mylar flex doesn't hold up to well. Hate to see them pulling out the tub to replace that flex in another five years. Fine job scott!!!0 -
\"Noodle\" duct
(BTW, nice neat well-planned work, Scott)
What problems besides vermine? Must admit that I actually like the stuff for some applications. Seems less prone to leakage, nicely insulated and less restrictive for routes.
It seems to be doing fine in my store/bar (an old brick "downtown-type" building. Has been there for nearly 20 years. Bar upstairs with ducts in ceiling where it experiences exceedingly high temp in the summer. Still seems in "like new" condition whenever we work above the drop ceiling.0 -
attachment photo
Are you concerned about drying out the wax ring for the toilet with the Stadler tubing running so close?
Otherwise, nice looking job.0 -
Noodle duct
That a good name, Mike if you got 20 years out of mylar
then you got yours money worth. Attic and crawlspaces
around here it becomes dryrotted. I have seen the plastic
thats wrap with the spring completely come apart and the duct collapse.Not to mention the pressure drop thru a piece of flex is greater then what it is thru a piece of pipe.
The point I was trying to make is what chance do they have if they have to make a repair.And looking at that noodle duct it will not be long.No ductseal,or panduit straps,but
then again its duct work,anybody can do it.
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What can I say?
You and your guys get better every photo! I was curious what type of radiant panel that was and what type of tubing you used? Also did you guys install all the panels or did a carpenter do it? How long does that type of install take? And how cost effective for the homeowner is it? I guess cheaper then a wet-bed install?
Talk to you soon,
Jamie0 -
Bob
I don't think that location is for a toilet! It looks more like a shower drain to me because it has a hot and cold water supply pipes. Maybe they still have to build a wall.
Jamie0 -
Question for you, Scott...
Do you draw out the tubing layout before hand or just wing it as you go along? I've drawn my floor layout in Autocad and it was a nightmare getting the tubing lengths to be reasonably matched on each circuit off the manifold.
Just wondering what method you use.
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At closer look...
...that noodle does look especially weak. It's not properly extended and the insulation poking out is a VERY bad sign.
While it amazes me that mylar (of all plastics) could possibly "dry rot" I'll take you at your word--termites actually tunnel through rigid foam...
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we wing it ..
We know that the sg footage is and use that for our loop length along with maximum length.
Jamies right that is a drain for the shower stall which will have a copper pan and tile. Thats gonna be a nice warm floor. We also roughed in for a towel warmer.
The tubing is Stadler and Stadler climate panel. They were the first to come out with this product.
On a larger size job we might ash Stadler for a drawing.
I don't have a photo of the W.C. but we stayed plenty far away.
This job was done by Steve Regan and Darrel Robertson. Nice neat work guys.
Scott
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Nice ,and answers
He is using Stadler Climate Panel the wisbro is the same exact stuff. we've been doing it since the early 90s when it came out. it is the best for that type of install. Yes, it is thinner than concrete , and yes for small project like that it is less exspense and hassle compared to concrete , and it works excellent.0 -
Metal duct in a damp atmosphere?
I'm not crazy about the flex duct either, although I use QUITE a bit of it in commercial jobs. The key is, it is accessible and can easily be replaced.
I agree - I'd hate to see the flex duct pop a seam and need to be replaced.
My concern with the metal duct would be corrosion in such a moist atmosphere. Suggest aluminum duct? Or PVC coated?
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