Boiler won't turn on - intermittent

Joe

I have a Burnham Independence model boiler that won't turn on all the time, it's just over a year old. It'll go great for a week or so and then all of a sudden it won't run. If I turn the thermostat up and tap on the transformer with a screwdriver handle it somehow fixes the problem. I really feel it's an electric/electronic problem at this point and figure it's either the transformer that I bang on or it's the relay. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Frank_17

it its not

> I have a Burnham Independence model boiler that

> won't turn on all the time, it's just over a year

> old. It'll go great for a week or so and then

> all of a sudden it won't run. If I turn the

> thermostat up and tap on the transformer with a

> screwdriver handle it somehow fixes the problem.

> I really feel it's an electric/electronic problem

> at this point and figure it's either the

> transformer that I bang on or it's the relay.

> Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Frank_17

it its not

out on reset,,,,it sounds like the primary control the 8184 not pulling in. either bad connection before that control,,ie switch, lwco, wire nuts or the relay in the control. Its not the transformer.If it was, you'd hear buzzing and the it would trip out on lockout.
check low voltage wires too. First i'd check that you have 120v to unit.next time it happens rap on primary control, if it comes on ,it is the control

Floyd

not always...

had one yesterday that was the cad cell and harness..... did the same thing.... thought it was the relay also.....

That one really threw me for a loop!!!! This bus. is FUN!!!!! Always something different!!!!!

Floyd

David Efflandt

Check everything electrically

Trace all the circuits to see what is interrupting the current flow (no voltage) or getting proper voltage and not operating.

In my case it was Effikal vent damper that would sometimes fail to open when hot. It had power to proper pins. Power cycling boiler breaker (off-on) or opening damper with manual electric switch allowed it to fire up. After that it would work correctly in auto for days. Not that this is your problem, but it helps to isolate which device is the problem.

David Efflandt

Check everything electrically

Trace all the circuits to see what is interrupting the current flow (no voltage) or getting proper voltage and not operating. Banging on it will not tell you what is stuck or tripped out.

In my case it was Effikal vent damper that would sometimes fail to open when hot. It had power to proper pins. Power cycling boiler breaker (off-on) or opening damper with manual electric switch allowed it to fire up. After that it would work correctly in auto for days. Not that this is your problem, but it helps to isolate which device is the problem so whoever fixes it can have proper parts.

Joe

One thing I did notice

was when the boiler got the call for heat, the vent opened but the boiler didn't fire.

Bob Bona_4

I

think you are close to finding the solution. Bad end switch on damper? Damper not opening fully due to non-concentric flue pipe(binding)?

To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"

Joe

Actually

I noticed it's open all of the way before I tap on the transformer. I don't if that means anything, but I would imagine there must be a sensor that tells the boiler it's ok to fire when the vent is open. Maybe a bad sensor or something along that line?

You guys are great and I wish I wasn't forced to figure this out on my own. It all comes down to $$$$$ and right now with 3 kids and 1 income, my $$$$$ situation is more like $. Of course this is something I can't live without and may have to borrow to get it fixed if it decides to totally quit.

Unknown

Joe

The problem sounds as if it is caused by a possible loose wire connection either in the transformer junction box or at the contactor relay. Although is not either my practice or company policy to encourage homeowners to diagnose problems with equipment, I will offer a couple of simple checks.

If the item you are hitting with a screwdriver is the transformer, then it would be mounted on a 4" junction box on the left outer jacket panel. Inside the junction box are most of the electrical connections for the boiler. There are 120 volt and 24 volt connections in the box. Most importantly is the molex plug connection for the vent damper and the connections from your thermostat. I would have someone check those first if the rap from the screwdriver is bringing it on.

If the item you are hitting is the relay, then it is mounted inside the boiler vestibule on the inside front panel. Your thermostat pulls this in to open the damper and fire the burner provided the low water cutoff is satisfied and the pressuretrol or high limit is below it's limit. The connections to this relay are all made up into a plastic plug assembly that simply pushes onto the several 1/4" male spade connections on the relay. All of these connections are 24 volt AC. This plug may simply be loose and needs to be pushed on tighter.

Always be sure to have the party that is working on this boiler turn off the incoming 120 volt power before opening the junction box and it is always our recommendation to have a professional work on this boiler. Hope this helps.

Glenn Stanton

Burnham Corp.

Joe

Thank you Glenn

Thank you Glenn, I always appreciate your help. Yes, I'm referring to the transformer that is mounted on the 4" electrical box on the outside. I'll shut the power off and make sure everything is all nice and tidy in there. It's been working perfect for the last day and a half since the last "tap".

As you know, I'm the DIY'er nut who installed 2 of these myself last year. Everything has been fine since I replaced the originals and I really couldn't be happier.

Jim Eastman

Effikal damper

The Effical damper rotates 360 degrees and has two end switches. I installed a Dunkirk boiler with a 5" Effikal damper in September. We kept getting intermittent ignition failures---about twice per month. Finally, the culprit was identified. It was one of the "end switches" in the vent damper. This particular damper has been recalled. I will put the new damper in on Tuesday. The final clue was that the ignition module was not getting power and was not causing the the boiler to lock out. Tripping the 110 volt source started the damper rotation and always resumed the heating operation. You can track this solution by finding out if you have 24V power to the ignition module during lock out.

Jim Eastman

Frank_17

JOE

JUST SAID IT WAS GAS NOT OIL. You really should call a pro.