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Connecting radiators with Pex neatly
Paul_11
Member Posts: 210
Hey people,
I've used Pex to connect up to radiators in the past and either left the adapter inside the wall (UGH) or left the pex visable. I'm doing a nicer job now and would like to hear ideas on how to do a nice clean job.
I'm using TRVs with ball valves on each radiator and connecting the supply at the top and the return on the bottom. I don't want the pex to be visable as it goes down through the floor. The return is lower but still some will be visable. I'm considering using 3/4" copper sleeves, but wonder how to connect to the floor so that it is stable. A 3/4" black pipe flange just isn't acceptable. They don't seem to make these in brass. I'm considering using a 3/4" black floor flange, but install it under the floor and let the copper go through the floor and terminate with a male adapter into the back of the floor flange. Then I could us a regular chrome for copper pipe flange on top. That would be stable and nice looking. That is all I've come up with so far.
Any ideas?????
Paul
A Real Good Plumber, Inc.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=236&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
I've used Pex to connect up to radiators in the past and either left the adapter inside the wall (UGH) or left the pex visable. I'm doing a nicer job now and would like to hear ideas on how to do a nice clean job.
I'm using TRVs with ball valves on each radiator and connecting the supply at the top and the return on the bottom. I don't want the pex to be visable as it goes down through the floor. The return is lower but still some will be visable. I'm considering using 3/4" copper sleeves, but wonder how to connect to the floor so that it is stable. A 3/4" black pipe flange just isn't acceptable. They don't seem to make these in brass. I'm considering using a 3/4" black floor flange, but install it under the floor and let the copper go through the floor and terminate with a male adapter into the back of the floor flange. Then I could us a regular chrome for copper pipe flange on top. That would be stable and nice looking. That is all I've come up with so far.
Any ideas?????
Paul
A Real Good Plumber, Inc.
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=236&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
Since 1990, I have made steam systems quiet, comfortable, and efficient. We provide comfort while saving the planet.
NYC RETROFIT ACCELERATOR QUALIFIED SERVICE PROVIDER
A REAL GOOD PLUMBER, INC
NYC LMP: 1307
O:212-505-1837
M:917-939-0593
NYC RETROFIT ACCELERATOR QUALIFIED SERVICE PROVIDER
A REAL GOOD PLUMBER, INC
NYC LMP: 1307
O:212-505-1837
M:917-939-0593
0
Comments
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rads
We're tackling a retro-fit on Thursday using 1/2" PAP (viagra PEX!) due to the runs being visible in the basement & not wanting to suffer the droops. We'll be leaving the iron piping in tact above the flooring in this tudor-style mansion and adapting to the fittings below.
Converted from steam to HW, a Munchkin provides the umph for this four zone with one supplimental hydro-air unit for the great room missing a cast iron rad but had A/C - no brainer to add a hydro coil & 2-stage stat. The owner has friends at Heat Transfer Products! Pretty soon, I expect the gas co to drop by & see why their meter is defective(G).
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I used
Two, 1/2" chrome plated nipples on my runtal panel radiator in my kitchen. I drilled the hole only slightly larger and caulked with white caulk. If I get a picture.......0 -
notch the studs
...bundle the supply & return tubes together, notch the studs to recess the tubing & cover w/wood baseboard....0 -
finished product
...find the pex....0 -
I like....
to use P-A-P (Multi-Cor) for my remote manifolds and for connecting radiators and Baseray. It is easier to work with than copper or pex, stays in place, looks neater, and does not sag like pex when heated. It is also quieter than pex when it expands and contracts. We insulate the piping with foam insulation (Imco-Loc) before the drywall goes up. -DF
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
PAP ??
Reference above to PAP... Is this Pex-Al-Pex ?
Has the name been shortened in the field?
And "MultiCor" ... is that someone's Trade Name for it?0 -
Correct....
P-A-P = Pex-Al-Pex. MultiCor is Wirsbo's version of P-A-P. -DF
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Careful when notching!!
on a bearing wall, no more than 25% of the width of the stud. 40% on non-bearing studs.
hot rod
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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