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Edwards boiler
jim f
Member Posts: 182
seems like the easy answer is replacing the exsiting x-tank with a new diaphram tank that is sized properly
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Comments
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Edwards water boiler
When the burner is on the pressure shoots to around 32 lbs. When the burner shuts off the pressure quickly drops to 12 lbs. I emptied the non-diaphram type expansion tank, which had been waterlogged. Does anyone know what I should tell my customer?0 -
waterlogged
is the tank full again . check feed valve. maybe tank is bad and houws the hot water coil. more info please.jg0 -
There is no domestic hot water coil.0 -
edwards boiler
sounds like tank is waterlogged. Does the tank have an air break fitting, make sure the tank is completely empty and is at least neutral air pressure or put a little air in before shutting drain again. ?? has this always been a problem or just started. If always, tank may be undersized.0 -
I know it seems the tank is waterlogged again but the only extra vent is at the bottom. The system is old and I don't know how well it worked from the start. Also, the owner is new to the house. I guess i'll go over there again and see if the tank is doing any good at all.0 -
Waterlogged tank
When you have a non-diaphragm tank you have an air control system...with a diaphragm tank you have an air elimination system. These two get mixed up on most systems. With your tank, the bottom of the tank must be connected to the air seperator ( either an in line type or the boiler), preferably with a B&G airtrol fitting or its equivalent. There also must be NO automatic air vents on the system. This way any air that is in the system water is directed to the tank, helping it keep its charge. If auto vents are used they gradually steal air from the tank, causing it to loose its charge. I'd ask the customer if they need to bleed air out of the system, If they do, that air is probably coming from the tank as it gets reabsorbed into the system water when the system cools down. Connecting the water supply line to the line going up to the tank and putting the pump on the supply just after the air separator is also very beneficial. This helps prevent air from getting trapped out in the system, making sure the tank stays properly charged. AS with steam boilers, its all in the piping!
Boilerpro0 -
Kent , seems Odd ?
What your telling us if I'am correct is when the burner is on ,the pressure jumps up to 32# and when the burner shuts down it "quickly" drops to 12#........ What type of hydronic system and which Edward's boiler are we talking about ? Does the circulator run at the same time as the burner is on???0 -
Edwards boiler
All the Edwards boiler I work on the pump is mounted to pump the water out of the bottom of the boiler not the top. If any air is in or goes through the boiler it will go to the expansion tank. These systems usally had a pump control on them to turn the pump on at 120 degrees. If pressure goes up that fast are you sure you drained all the water from the tank and it did not air lock without draining completly. Sometimes we have to put air in the line or remove a plug from side of tank to releive pressure so water will drain. Most systems I work on the tanks never give any problems. They are hard to get enough water out when this happens. They are slender and about 20" tall and the boiler connected to the very bottom. Hope this helps. Bob0 -
on an edwards boiler i am assuming you have the original exp tank a tan tank nailed to the celing with a 1/4" line running to it make sure the air is vented on top of the boiler through that line so you know it is open they had a tendency to partially block using the top of the boiler as a expansion/pressure point the car radiator fitting seen at the bottom of the tank was for draining the tank also i have seen pressures raise [from 12 to 18#] when the original circ was replaced with a b&g / you are dealing with trapped air0 -
Gentlemen
Thank you for all your professional assistance. The owner is away now but when I can get in there I will apply your ideas and post the solution.0
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