Gyp-crete vs. Warm Board

kevin_5

I have a homeowner planning a large (in his words) "show-home". We bid a lightweight gypsum overpour for the main floor and second floor loft. I understand we need to account for the extra weight in framing and possibly an extra plate on the bottom of the walls to screed off of. My question is, the homeowner recently asked me if there were any advantages to a product he saw in which you send your plans in and the company puts grooves into your sub-floor for the tubing. (He called it "warm board" which I thought was another product like Wirsbo's "quik trak") This is NOT the Quik-Trak style plywood that goes OVER your subfloor, it is the subfloor itself. I told him I had heard of such things, and didn't know how price compared; but I could see no advantage performance-wise, and I could see BIG problems if even one small mistake was made in the grooves, which would cause major scheduling delays as well as extra hassle laying it all out even IF it all went well. Having said all that I told him I had heard that it does work well, but you need to be very careful laying it out. So how 'bout it guys? Was I correct in what I told him? Is there any benefit to the non-overpour method cost-wise or otherwise? Part of his problem is he wants to have a lot of real wood floors in the place. I told him we can put sleepers down to nail the wood to before the gyp is poured. (I understand the potential for trouble with wood if not designed correctly with max floor temps etc...) What are your thoughts and experiences? Thank you and a Merry Christmas and Happy/Prosperous New Year to you all. Kevin

Paul Pollets

Warm Board

Warm Board has some advantages in that is slightly more emmissive than Gyp,and doesn't add 11/2" to the FF height. It does require care during installation and making sure the grooves line up. The design usually calls for the heating contractor or GC to rout grooves back to the manifolds. Cost wise, it's $5./SF with pricing about to increase. Finding competence to put the product in right is often the harder part of the job. Make sure the GC has all his questions answered before installation.
Gyp has it's advantages too... It makes the home fireproof and has huge sound absorbing qualities. It does weigh 13-14#/PSF, and the extra plate to make a sheetrock nailer. Talk to Barry LaDuke at WarmBoard. They're very helpful and competent.

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Troy_3

Gyp all the way

I've never installed Warmboard. I've been called in to fix two noisey jobs. I assume they weren't installed correctly. (very Load expansion noises). The more low mass systems I install and see the more I am driven to the benefits of Gypsum concrete. ( thermal mass) We install tubes between 2" x 2" sleepers on 16" centers and fill with gypsum concrete for 3/4" hardwood. Word of warning--Hardwood guys want point of attachment every 6" Glue between sleepers and nail on sleepers works great.

hr

Pros and cons to both methods

I have done 4 complete home WB jobs without any noise problems. Reset controls alway help expansion and noise, regardless of the system. I find the WB much faster responding, important for shoulder seasons and mild weather heating areas. Floor covering is a piece of cake with WB. Hardwoods nail directly over it. Tile used Dura Rock backerboard.

Yes it take some logistical work. Framers are a critical key. With proper planning little custom router work is necessary. I tuck the tubes below the floor for runs to the manifold location.

I still offer gyp jobs too. Hardwood nail down takes some additional carpentry work, and sleeper planning. I'm not fond of tile glued directly onto it. Gyp hates to get wet! Carpet and floating engineered hardwoods and carpet are a great match for gyp. Nice, quiet, even heat output, plus noise and fire resistence certainly are a plus with gyp systems.

As always it depends on YOUR application, floor coverings, climate, and expectations.

Can't say one is better than the other. Price them both, labor is always the biggest difference. Gyp in my area runs about $1.75 for small pours. I have heard of prices in excess of $3 in other areas?? Balance that against the additional labor charges for the WB for a starting point in your decision making.

hot rod

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Bob M.

REHAU Floor System

You should try the new REHAU floor system.It is Plate and wood system and does not have a lot of weight.

Good luck!

frank s

Warm Board..........

Gypcrete pour is definately cheaper then warm board, I'm told the approximate weight is 9# per sq. ft and it adds 2 inches to the floor before the wood floor is put down. I just did a job last week using the sandwich method, I put down 1x12 pine, cut a radius on the ends where the tubing would bend around, then put down heat emission plates. The whole job start to finish was 4 days for one man....ME, that includes putting down the sleepers, the plates,copper lines to boiler room, modulating 3 way valve, wirsbo pro mix 101, circ etc. the radiant zone was a 900 sq.ft family room on the 2nd floor over a garage. 12" on center spacing, with laminate flooring on top. The homeowners are ecstatic with it's performance. Thanks to Chris Maderia at Thames Valley Winnelson for his design and help.

Frank