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combustion efficiency smoke test
Jack_6
Member Posts: 5
when tuning your oil burner why would I need to do a co2 test first and smoke second when the smoke is the efficiency determining factor. Couldn't I just do a smoke test first and add air until I see trace and then just do a co2 test to calculate efficiency?
-Jack
-Jack
0
Comments
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My testing procedure
We do a complete test first, including draft.(provided the unit is able to fire up) This gives us baseline, a place to start. After this we smoke test. Doing both of these not only establishes the current performance of the unit but also allows us to show the customer on paper what changes we affected on his equipment. As we tune the burner we of course have a constant readout of what is happeneing to the burner. My feeling is that simply adjusting for no smoke and then looking at CO2 isnot giving you the whole picture. Excess air and CO also have to be looked at. If you tune for no smoke and then look at CO2 how do you know if you're at a good max efficiency?
JMHO as always0 -
Smoke test
Smoke test is the most important test for final adjustment for efficiency. Temperature and draft are also critical. But once you learn the value of a CO(carbon monoxide test) on oil, you would never want to work on one again without it. CO2 or O2 add to the picture, O2 being more important because it is a real number. When performing smoke tests I always recommend 25 pumps instead of 10 and look for a #1.0 -
Smoke
I usually do a smoke first, then put in the electronic and do some adjusting, then smoke again. Didn't know I was suppose to use electronic first.0 -
eff. test
I start with over the fire draft then breech draft, next I check smoke, then I go to digital, make adjustments, and finish up with a final smoke.0 -
> I start with over the fire draft then breech
> draft, next I check smoke, then I go to digital,
> make adjustments, and finish up with a final
> smoke.
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> I start with over the fire draft then breech
> draft, next I check smoke, then I go to digital,
> make adjustments, and finish up with a final
> smoke.
0 -
I agree.
If the draft is off, changing it will alter all of the other readings. I always do it first and stack temp last.0 -
I wouldn't want to clean one
of todays boilers left at a #1 smoke after a year.
In my Combustion book, the new NORA OTM and Aero, Beckett, Carlin, Riello and Wayne's installation sheets (and I won't even go into commercial equipment) the goal for the last 30 years has been ZERO smoke for flame retention designs. Now, if were talking about non-flame retention designs, dinosaurs or dragons, well that's another story.
The CO tester cracked me up though. We can't get most guys today to test the rest, CO on oil, that's a good one!0 -
I also agree, draft is the single most
important factor in establishing any good burner operation.
Here's a quote I adopted a few years ago in teaching and have always stood by: "faulty draft conditions cause more flame and combustion problems than any other single factor". That was written by an engineer in 1933 and it's the golden rule of burner setup and testing, IMO.
I've always taught the following:
1. Establish your draft at the breech and door at make adjustments and modifications as required and within manufacturers specs and code guidelines.
2. Take a good smoke test.
3. Take your CO2.
As to temperature, if you use two test holes you can catch that reading anytime and ensure that steady-state conditions are present. DOE guidelines require this in lab testing, in the field we have a lot more flex.
See ya.0 -
Do they make a CO tester
like the old style CO2 tester ? What did they use before electronic testers came into existence ? And would you know of a good place to buy a reasonably priced CO tester ? Im pretty sure I would be buying one out of my own pocket .0 -
Ever heard that oil equipment is dirty and stinky? That is what they did before electronic equipment. A good CO tester is between $400 & $500, but a complete combustion analyzer is only a few dollars more. In the 80's when I was selling the 90% efficient Yukon oil furnace, I found out that if you didn't minimize the CO the furnace wouldn't make it through the winter. Once the parameters where met, they could go for two years untouched, not that it was recommended. At zero smoke, with Beckett or Wayne burners, CO levels were too high. www.ncinstitute.com0 -
Checking and controlling draft
Nothing is more important than controlling the chimney or draft because it is what controls the air to the burner. This is the exact reason why we teach controlling draft on gas appliances is just as important!0 -
I must clarify,
if nothing else for those who read these posts.
Technically the venting device removes the products of combustion (outlet draft) based on air input, fuel input and other variables determined by the Btu input and air control.
However, if there is inadequate combsution draft (input air), you can have all of the outlet draft you can want and it won't work.
For combustion to take place safely and cleanly a balanced draft situation must be present even if the input draft is operated under a positive pressure as in C/I equipment.
Today's equipment is much more critical to a lack of input air more than venting. With fans, an unlimited amount of venting draft can be produced. Again, with fans adequate amounts of inlet air can be produced, the trick is balancing them.
I don't do much gas, I've spent a lifetime learning oil, ya can't know everything, :-)0
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