T(h)ankless hot water :0)

Paul_12

I have a Utica 2054 oil boiler (circa 1985) with two heat zones, located in the Northeast. The hot water is tankless and feeds through the boiler. At times, the (shower) water is not hot enough, especially if either of the other two zones are active. If the zones are not on, the water is plenty hot. Although I know this is a common problem, (corrosion, etc..), I would like to contionue to use the oil burner to heat the hot water. I have also put setback thermostats on each zone to try to heat the house to the set temp before shower water is used.
Question : Is there a way to temporary shut off the zones (electronically) while there is a demand for hot water --OR-- , can I connect a cheap 30/40 gallon electric hot water heater ($150) to keep the water hot, while the oil burner will do most of the heating (no natural gas in the house).? Other simple / inexpensive ideas?

Paul_12

UTICA Firebox

I have a Utica 2054 oil boiler (circa 1985). The oil repairman, while inspecting the house before purchase, mentioned that the firebox looks a bit cracked, but not in immediate danger. He recommended firebox back wall replacement. Is this something I can perform myself without special tools? (I consider myself very handy, i.e. plumbing, ) . What are the dangers or things to look out for? (i.e. exhaust CO leaks, etc) and how long should this take? I cannot find any instructions on the web on how to do this.

Tom M.

low limit

In a tankless hot water application, the low limit should be a doulble acting switch that cuts the power to the circulator relays. By 1985, when you say this system is dated, the controls should have been integrated into a 3in1 (high-low limit/circulator control) or 4in1(same but with burner control). For additional zones there should be circulator relays with two sets of contacts for running the circulator and calling the burner up to high limit. If this is not the case, you should call your oil company to have them rewired. I've seen many additional zones wired improperly.

EDDIE GRIERSON_2

Get HELP

Call a profesional. Unless you have an combustion anaylzer and know how to use it otherwise you could but you and your family in danger!

James Kunka

Try adding a \"tank\" to your \"tankless\"

There are two solutions:

1) Put in the $150 electric after the tankless coil. The boiler will preheat the water and greatly reduce the amount of electricity the water heater uses. The water heater gives you the buffer for the showers when the zones are calling for heat. This option requires no modifications to your electrical controls.

If you want to get fancy (like I did)...

2) Use an electric water heater with the lower element disconnected. Wire the lower T-stat to turn on a small (bronze) circulator to circulate domestic hot water through the tankless coil. Pipe the tankless return into the water heater drain or through a coaxial fitting at the outlet. (This is done to prevent scalds from 180 degree water being introduced at the outlet.) The coaxial tube should go down 12" to 18" into the tank.

Unknown

Need more domestic hot water

You can install a 30 gallon hot water insulated storage tank available from AO Smith co. Pipe the hot water from the coil to the inlet of the storage tank. you will need a small circulating pump to circulate the water from the tank to the coil. Cold water in gets tied into the storage heater.

The tank should have a cold water inlet & hot water inlet at the bottom of the tank. Hot water out to the fixtures leaves the top of the tank.

Am aquastat is installed in the tank to operate the circ. pump.

The tank becomes a blending unit for both hot and cold water. Usually when no draw occurs the whole tank is charged with 30 gallons of ususable hot water. When a draw occurs the circ pump sends heated stored water to the coil.

This operation aids in high recovery of hot water.

The manufacturer supplys installation instructions and they need to be followed.


jake