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Two Pipe System(mk)
Mike Kraft
Member Posts: 406
I never did anything with steam.This said I must thank all of the steam afficianados who's threads I have been reading for quite sometime.
I am not a good book learner.I am more the hands on learner.The books that Dan has provided are just freakn awesome:)The Lost Art exploded on me today.I brought it in a warm home from the cold truck.
This house has undergone some renovations in the late 50's/early 60's.3 heated floors.Floors #1 & #2 all have WM Raydiant Concealed Rads.Floor #3 has column type rads.The WM rads I looked at had a variety of valves.I found Sparco,Hoffman and the third was also another MAN but I was sick of looking with the mirror and flashlight:)I'll post some pics of the rads.
The boiler is a WM also.Oil fired.Pictures below also.The new HO's would like to convert to NAT as the oil tank is 1000 gallon and age is unknown.I'm guessing 45-50 years at most.May still have leverage to stay with oil but NAT gas is what they have in their home in Manhatten.And thats what they want.The pool is getting a facelift also.It has been demoed and the steel work is waiting to get new crete pumped on it.Very large pool.A Nat gas pool heater is in the works from the pool company.I have just come into the field of play.So I have planted the seed for a HX for the pool.
The H20heater is a 80 gallon electric.The boiler has a coil and there was a side arm gravity tank which was leaking.There is another plumbing/heating contractorworking in the home.They were commisionedto eliminate the tank.
The original dwelling I believe was built in the 20's.The main has a "split feed"?The longer main ends in a closet.There is a crossover from the supply to the return.On the return there is a trap.This I am guessing is to vent.The vent is located ontop of a Dunham Air Eliminator.Also pictured below.The shorter supply main is also crossed over in the same manner and ultimately ties into the low wet return.
Some of the radiators have some noise issues.Clanging and perculating.I am seeing some pitch problems with the rad and not seeing what lies behind sheetrock ceilings:)All and all the system is quiet.The boiler runs long and is off long.The pressuretrol is a honeywell and set at .2.The model # is written on my note pad which I just realized is in theri living room.
This boiler is definetly destined for a change ..........this spring/summer.The HO's are solid with this.The practicality of conversion to hot water I dont believe is doable.Many of the existing piping are in cold areas.Much antifreeze would be needed.Walls are lathe and plaster so a conversion with pex would also be a bit unreasonable.So steam it will be.I want it! And am looking for comments advice and opinions:)
Thanks cheese
I am not a good book learner.I am more the hands on learner.The books that Dan has provided are just freakn awesome:)The Lost Art exploded on me today.I brought it in a warm home from the cold truck.
This house has undergone some renovations in the late 50's/early 60's.3 heated floors.Floors #1 & #2 all have WM Raydiant Concealed Rads.Floor #3 has column type rads.The WM rads I looked at had a variety of valves.I found Sparco,Hoffman and the third was also another MAN but I was sick of looking with the mirror and flashlight:)I'll post some pics of the rads.
The boiler is a WM also.Oil fired.Pictures below also.The new HO's would like to convert to NAT as the oil tank is 1000 gallon and age is unknown.I'm guessing 45-50 years at most.May still have leverage to stay with oil but NAT gas is what they have in their home in Manhatten.And thats what they want.The pool is getting a facelift also.It has been demoed and the steel work is waiting to get new crete pumped on it.Very large pool.A Nat gas pool heater is in the works from the pool company.I have just come into the field of play.So I have planted the seed for a HX for the pool.
The H20heater is a 80 gallon electric.The boiler has a coil and there was a side arm gravity tank which was leaking.There is another plumbing/heating contractorworking in the home.They were commisionedto eliminate the tank.
The original dwelling I believe was built in the 20's.The main has a "split feed"?The longer main ends in a closet.There is a crossover from the supply to the return.On the return there is a trap.This I am guessing is to vent.The vent is located ontop of a Dunham Air Eliminator.Also pictured below.The shorter supply main is also crossed over in the same manner and ultimately ties into the low wet return.
Some of the radiators have some noise issues.Clanging and perculating.I am seeing some pitch problems with the rad and not seeing what lies behind sheetrock ceilings:)All and all the system is quiet.The boiler runs long and is off long.The pressuretrol is a honeywell and set at .2.The model # is written on my note pad which I just realized is in theri living room.
This boiler is definetly destined for a change ..........this spring/summer.The HO's are solid with this.The practicality of conversion to hot water I dont believe is doable.Many of the existing piping are in cold areas.Much antifreeze would be needed.Walls are lathe and plaster so a conversion with pex would also be a bit unreasonable.So steam it will be.I want it! And am looking for comments advice and opinions:)
Thanks cheese
0
Comments
-
Dan's quote-
"It's a Dunham system! A Dunham system!"
You're right on track, Cheese. This was the Cadillac of heating in its day. Those crossover traps do exactly like you said.
Where are the traps for the Raydiants? If you can't see them under the rads I'll bet theyre under the floors.
It's probably time to change the trap innards. This is an oft-neglected maintenance item on these systems. I think you can still get them from Dunham, if not you can from Barnes & Jones or Tunstall.
Once all the traps are working and the pipes pitched properly, the noise should stop.
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Consulting0 -
Frank
Thanks.The traps and feed valves for the Raydiants are under the rads.Accessible from underneath..........not very easy but accessible.The rad that knocks the most is on the second floor.The floor has quite a hump in it.The rad is low by 3/4" on the supply side.The rad sits ontop of a framed french door (door is gone)archway.All the door headers have bellies in em.This one included.Some apron sill trim will need to be pulled and then see if the rad can be shimmed.Dont know if there is any play in the risers.
cheese0 -
noises
Mike, I think this picture shows a water pocket behind the bushing. Can it be removed and the pipe run full diameter back to the riser?
.......
I didn't think it would come out, either.
Noel0 -
Noel
Every rad in there is bushed just like that.That particular rad for some reason is not built in the wall.That is the reason for the offset.The riser doesnt line up with the rad tap.The other feed valves throughout the house are facing down and the union is screwed on the risers.That rad is also pitched back to the valve......to the tune of about an inch on a two foot level.There is some carpentry work to be done forst to see if the riser will pull up.If so I will adjust the rad legs.
thanks..........cheese0
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