Trane steam valves

Paul Ellison

Hi folks. I have a 1925 home with a 2 pipe steam system. It seams that every radiator valve in the house hisses around the stem when the boiler is on. I opened one to attempt repacking. Inside I found a brass (?) bellows thingie that sealed from the valve cap to the tip of the valve. It had cracked and eventually split, causing the leak. I would really like to relpace the bellows instead of installing new valves to maintain the appearance. Can these innards be found? Do you suppose I could maybe use JB Weld to reassemble them? The ends are corroded a bit but not badly pitted. I am sure they will clean up.

Thanks!

Steamhead

You have a Trane Vapor System (Attention T.P. Tunstall)

one of the nicest Vapor systems I've seen. I've worked on several around Baltimore and they're still in pretty good shape after all these years.

That bellows took the place of the packing- but eventually even packless valves leak. I doubt if an old bellows is repairable- but you may be able to get parts from Tunstall. Go to http://www.tunstall-inc.com/default.html to see what they have to offer.

Tunstall may also be able to rebuild them into "Thermostatic Radiator Valves" which can limit the temperature in the room where they're installed. These are great for bedrooms and kitchens.

The Trane Vapor system is covered in detail in Dan's "The Lost Art of Steam Heating Companion". Also get "The Lost Art of Steam Heating" if you haven't already. Both are available on the Books and More page of this site.

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Paul Ellison

Thanks Steamhead. The local supplier thought it might be a vapor system when I called. I read "the lost art..." but I haven't bought the "companion" - yet. I guess I will. There are a couple of other things in the new catalog I want, too. The old boiler was dead when we bought the house - an allowance was made for a new one. The new one is a Weil-McLain EGH95. The old main vents were reused. I have the old Pressurtrol, too. The supplier asked if it had a Pressurtrol or a Vaporstat when I asked about the valves. Now I wonder how much tweaking I can do for this system. It makes a lot of heat!

Paul Ellison

keeping \"the look\"

I was hoping to repair these valves to keep the look. Maybe I can design a new pack to reduce the hissing. I guess I could just consider it a humidifier, but excess make-up water isn't supposed to be good for a boiler.

Paul

Steamhead

I'm not sure

what the Tunstall kits contain- but I've heard they make good equipment, so give them a try. You wouldn't want to put TRVs in the main livig area anyway- that's where the thermostat is (or should be) and those radiators need to stay wide open. You could certainly keep "the look" in that part of the house!

Does your system still have its "Direct Return Trap"? It looks like an old metal milk jug and hangs near the boiler. If so, and it's working, it will make sure the water gets back to the boiler no matter what the pressure. But I'd consider a Vaporstat anyway- if you have one, the Return Trap would serve as a backup. Tunstall says they can rebuild Return Traps too.

The original Trane vents were sized properly for coal, but may not be large enough for oil or gas. I like to use Gorton #2 vents on Vapor since each has about 4 times the capacity of the old Tranes (and the Hoffman #75 or 76 as well)and will vent quickly under a couple ounces pressure. If you can't find them, go to www.gorton-valves.com and ask who handles them in your area. They will sell to you direct if no one does. If you talk to Ken Kunz at Gorton, tell him I sent you.

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Paul Ellison

Thanks again Steamhead! I never thought of temp sontrol valves until now. I'll check your referrals.

Paul Ellison

The Direct Return Trap is history. I wanted to keep it "just because" like I did the old Pressuretrol and Trane gauge but it went away before I could salvage it. There doesn't seem to be much of a problem with condensate returning, tho. I thought I had a problem but I skimmed the boiler and the problem went away.

Steamhead

You definitely need that Vaporstat, then

so the boiler pressure can't get any higher than the "B" dimension can handle. You probably have more "B" than before since the W-M EG has a low water line, but why build more pressure than you need? That just wastes fuel.

The Vaporstat isn't cheap, but it's the right part for the job. Get the one that has a maximum cut-out setting of 1 PSI. Set it to cut out at about 8 ounces and in at 4 or 6, and watch how well your system works!

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Paul Ellison

Cool!! Thanks.

tp tunstall

trane radiator valves

were made for many years and many varieties. we can replace the internals and furnish either a macon non- electric thermostatic head or a manual one. a sample valve would be the way to go . look up the web site www.maconcontrols.com for futher info

Paul Ellison

Thank you very much! I am going to see what happens with the Vaporstat - then move on to the next step. I like the idea of temperature controls for the bedrooms.

Paul

Dave_23

Trane system

I have a Trane vapor system as well. I just received my three Gorton #2 main vents. Still waiting for the vaporstat and ounce gauge to arrive before I begin their installation.

I probably won't start work until I temporarily install the oz. gauge to document the existing operating pressure range. I want the information for a before/after comparison.

I currently use a W-M EG45 w/standing pilot. My system works pretty well as is. The Gorton's, vaporstat and oz gauge will, in part, be an interesting learning experience, even though it's costing me a few hundred $.
-Dave

Paul Ellison

I got brave and started diddling with the Pressurtrol. (There are 2 on my system, one is suppose to be a safety, I didn't touch it.) According to the gauge, cut-out is now just under a pound and cut-in is somewhere after the dial drops but still while the main vent is sizzling. Overall, the system seems more even. Why are you replacing the vents?
Paul