Broomell steam - It wasn't broke but we fixed it anyway! Heeelp!

DanHolohan

We moved to a three-story, two-pipe steam-heated home last summer that has a 3 year-old EGH Model Weil-McLain gas 400,000 BTU heater. It has a Honeywell cut-in pressuretrol -- (If there was a vaporizer formerly, it's long gone.) The pressuretrol was set to the minimal setting and the pressure guage would rise to about 5 psi before shutting off, which it seemed to do fairly frequently.

The house dates at least to the early 1900s and has/had Broomell valves on the top of each radiator, long covered with flaking paint. The "Milwaukee MILVACO" traps are also covered by old paint. As winter set in, we noticed that the heating system came on quickly throughout most of the house, but: - two radiators did not work at all. Our plumber told us one was simply shut off. When the valve was turned, it began to work perfectly. - One required a new valve and trap, which he replaced. It also began working well, but to such an extent that the radiators in the rooms above it no longer worked as well. - We also noticed that air escaped and hissed and in some cases tiny amounts of moisture escaped from around the base of the pistol handle of the Broomell valve. Once heated, they stopped hissing. Our plumber told us that steam is not supposed to escape from a steam heating system at all. (Another told us, NO, you need air to escape from somewhere and advised us to install air vents on each radiator, and your website says, NO, in a 2-pipe system, you need working traps on each radiator that let the cool air out and permits the steam to rise.)

Our plumber has since replaced 8 of 13 Broomell valves with Legend brass valves with round turn handles. We noticed that we now had to turn the thermostat up a couple degrees higher just to get the same degree of warmth, our heat bill has almost doubled, and it took a lot longer and some radiators were not working at all.

A couple days after the first 4 new valves were installed, we had a near disaster. Pressure built up to 15 psi and the pressure release valve went off, as I happened to be in standing near the boiler. Steam billowed out from every pore as the boiler hissed menacingly. ("Houston, we almost had a lift off.") We managed to shut off the electric switch, and reduced the thermostat for days till we could determine the cause.

The gas company guy suggested replacing the pig valve -- which DID turn out to be clogged. Our plumber put on a new pig valve - it has an even flatter bend than the old one -- and proceeded to replace 4 other Broomell valves that hissed when the system came on. One of the older Broomells had begun to drip on the floor as other radiators were sealed off by airtight new valves. We held on to two of old valves just in case.

After all that, we had to turn the heat up to 90 -- just to get the system warm, and some of the radiators with new valves stayed cold. Our plumber advised trying to increase the pressuretrol setting slightly, which we have done to 2. Our system, which used to come on with a few seconds of hammering at the outset, now comes on slooooowly, and quietly. We no longer have to run the thermostat up so high. Radiators on the top floor get piping hot, those below are lukewarm. And it takes forever. The pressure guage now goes up to 6 psi before cycling off. I'm sure our next heat bill will resemble the national budget of Taiwan.

Before we undergo more wopping expense and heartache: 1. Were those Broomell valves behaving properly by letting heat and a small amount of moisture through them when they first came on? Or did they keep the system hot because they were corroded and venting air that the traps were not doing their job with? 2. Should we reinstall our old Broomell valves -- or try to find used replacements? 3. Your website advises that we use a vaporizer only on a two-pipe steam system. If Broomell valves are/were on the radiators, do we have a "Broomell" system? Now that we have half and half -- should we change to a vaporizer? 4. And mainly: How can we return to a fuel efficient and working system throughout our house without spending our other arm and leg? Is there a remedy here? We live in the Philadelphia area.

Thanks for you help. You're the only place on the ENTIRE internet that addresses these problems. (We plan to get your book(s) -- if we can afford them after next month's heat bill!) Thanks! - Jane

[Deleted User]

well,

all the valves do is let steam into the radiator. thats it. they should not leak (hiss) to the atmosphere. what does the real work are the steam traps. these have to let the air out of the radiator in order for the steam to get in. these i would suggest replacing before the inlet valves. i would also replace your pressuretrol with a vaporstat. also were does the air get out of the system? there must be a main vent on the top of a pipe probably either in the boiler room or in a corner of the basement. make sure it works or replace it.

Steamhead

I think it's an air problem

the radiators on that system vent thru the traps into a "dry" (above the waterline) return which carries the air and condensate to the boiler room. The condensate drops back into the boiler and the air escapes thru a large vent. On earlier Broomells, the vent was part of a regulator that operated the dampers on the coal-fired boiler.

If the dry return vent was removed, or is inoperative, air will not vent from the radiators.

The old leaky Broomell valves allowed the air to escape from the steam mains and risers. Steam pressure then compressed the remaining air, allowing some steam to get into the radiators. Installing the new valves kept the air from escaping, leading to the present situation.

That system was probably designed to run at 8 ounces or so. You need a large vent such as a Gorton #2 on the dry return. You may even need more than one- if the air escapes loudly from a single vent, install another for a total of two.

And I'd definitely install a Vaporstat on that system. Get the one that cannot be set higher than 1 PSI.

www.gorton-valves.com

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Robert O'Connor

Thats the fix

I repaired a couple Broomell systems. Steamheads dead on . The vaporstat is critical as is the main vent on the dry return . Over 8 or 9 ounces and they dont work well.

Regards,

Robert

ps "The Lost Art of Steam Heating" in books and more covers the Broomell system well.

[Deleted User]

Oops.

Mr. Broomell was something else. He not only made good adjustable radiator valves, he sized the valves to fit the radiator. When sized properly, the valve only allowed the amount of vapor the radiator required. Can't say that for what you have now.

It is also possible that some of your radiators do not have traps, but rather specially designed union elbows. Too late now.

The gentlemen above are correct. It is probably an air elimination problem. But, I doubt you can stop there.

You may have to replace the rest of the valves, traps, and replace (or install) the dry return vent(s). A vaporstat is a must. The MH # is L408A1132 or L608A1046. That limits the maximum possible pressure to 16 oz. 8 oz should be just about right.

You might also find it necessary to throttle the hand valves on some radiators. Removing the calibrated valves has unbalanced your system. It will take some trial and error to recover the comfort level.

Good luck.