Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Radiant heat in basement?
SWJ
Member Posts: 1
I am in the process of planning a basement remodel. I currently have a hot water heat system that heats the first and second floors via cast radiators. When I finish each room in the basement, I am planning on building up the floor using a framework of 2x4's layed on their side, with a subfloor over the frame. My question - can I run PEX tubing in the framework of the subfloor to heat the basement rooms? If so, should I fill the space around the tubing (I was thinking sand as an easier alternative to concrete), or leave the air space?
0
Comments
-
Do yourself
a favor. Look at "Find a Contractor" on the left pipe here and ask one of them to work with you. His consultant fee may well save you $$$.$$ in the end if you're intending to DIY. Sand, No it breeds bugs. You might even think termite proofing the area now ! A heat loss is needed. you can do that your self if you'd like to. Keeping the water temp as cool as possible and still getting the job done is very neccessary! Pipe size here is needed. Done correctly is an absolute must! Anyway bigugh0 -
The First thing that you
must do before even considering putting tubing down is insulation. Unless you want to waste fuel and make a major mistake insulate. For this application I would look at two different methods and this depends on my budget.
Method#1 - I would use R-Foil Concrete Barrier Foil over the top of my exisisting concrete floor. I would then install some type of plywood subfloor. Then using 1x6 Furring Strips, starting from the farthest point in the room nail them to the subfloor along the entire exterior wall. Then install a 2nd row of furring strips in the same way, parrallel to the first row, with a 1" gap left between rows. Do this until the entire room is complete. Then using Heat Transfers plates, staple them(one side only, this leaves room for plate expansion) using 5/8" staples between each row of furring strips leaving a 1" gap between plates to allow for expansion. After this is complete, snap in your tubing.
Method #2 - Install insulation and sub-floor as in method #1 and then utilize one the the following - Wirsbo Quick Trak, Stadler's Climate Panel, Qest Thermal Trak, or RTI Thermal Trak and follow all manufactures installation requirements.
Method #1 is going to be cheaper as far as material cost but will require you more labor time than method #2.
Now the acutual first thing that you need to do is have a complete heat loss and radiant design done by a reputable radiant installer or designer. Don't think that you can save yourself a buck, because you can but you will pay in the long run. Whether it's in fuel consumption, or being unsatisfied with the system itself. And please, please, please if your searching the net, stay away from Radiant Technologies of Vermont. Do not get them confused with RTI out of Long Island.0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 919 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements