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The Gauntlet is thrown down
Steve Ebels
Member Posts: 904
Resize that for me. New scanner. (Doh!) Maybe it'd readable the way it is.
Not looking to start a cat fight here, just want to know if you can do these things with F/A and how much it'd cost
Not looking to start a cat fight here, just want to know if you can do these things with F/A and how much it'd cost
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Comments
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OK here's a challenge for the forced air guys
This is the home I had just posted about a couple days ago. The one on the river. The rough outside dimensions of the house are 40 X 90. Two story with a full basement and bonus room over the garage. I have a copy of the heatloss data for this house listed below. This home will be heated by a panel radiator system running on full outdoor reset. Trv's controlling each room. Boiler will also supply Domestic Hot Water. A whole house TFP air filter and HRV are incorporated in the plan with their own simple duct system. I gave the HO an option for hi velocity AC system also.
Here's the challenge:
Design a forced air system that duplicates the following parameters.
1. Variable firing rate of the appliance. Minimum 3 to 1 turn down. Minimum efficiency of 85% AFUE rating.
2. Heating system shall be constant on with variable btu output from full off to maximum.
3. Supply a water heater that operates at 85% or better and has less than 1 degree per hour jacket loss. This water heater should be capable of recovering 3 gallons per minute at 90* temp rise
4. Provide for thermostatic temperature control of each individual room listed on the heat loss shown below, including garage. Be aware that the code in Michigan does not allow duct system for the rest of the home to be connected to the garage in any way. A seperate heating unit will have to be used. Garage loss is at 50* indoor temp.
5. Provide towel warmer for 1st floor bathroom.
6. Provide whole house air filtration. Lifebreath TFP or equivalent.
7. Provide positive ventilation and heat recovery for whole house.
8. Show option for forced air cooling of main and upper floor.
9. provide floor warming for kitchen dining area and main floor bathroom.
10. Total electrical power consumption shall be less than 150 watts at peak output.
Here's the questions.
Can you do this?
How much will it cost?0 -
Okay, so this is a little off the point, but
You can really cool the home with 2500 SqFt/ton???
You might want to re-think the cooling load. Okay, so the summer outdoor design is 85 and dry, but thats not very much a/c.
In addition it is only about .16 CFM/SqFt - not much air motion. For me to be comfortable, I'd need a table fan moving some air in each room.
Just a thought....0 -
Subtract
The basement and the workshop from the cooling load and it gets a little closer. That's the way it is designed. I've found that HVAC-Calc is a little light on the cooling side of things. The A/C option I gave him is for three tons from a Unico Hi-velocity system. Up here in No. MI. I size AC more toward the dehumidification side than actual room temp drop. We seldom get above 85-88* ambient but encounter some wicked humidity. A unit taht's a tad small will run longer and remove more humidity than an oversized one. To large of a unit runs a while and shuts down on temp before the humidity is dealt with.0
This discussion has been closed.
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