One Pipe Steam Questions

Ron Rappel

I originally posted this on the Fine Homebuilding Breaktime Forum, and someone there suggested I try asking my question here...

While in the process of renovating a 1910 colonial, I've had to pull out a few steam radiators to have
sandblasted. These steam radiators have a single connection to the steam source on one end and an air vent at
the other. After sandblasting and repainting, I tried attaching the radiators again to the flange and notice some
water leaking from that joint. Tightening the nut further helped some, but some leaking is still noticed. Is there
anything special I need to do at the joint? I tried plumbers putty on one of the joints, which may have worked
initially, but in a month or so started leaking again. Someone also suggested teflon tape, but I wondered whether
it would melt. I'm also not sure whether the leaking is at the flange itself or through the threads.

Also, I've noticed leaking on some radiators that haven't been removed, at least not by me. One last question;
what type of wrench is usually used for tightening these large nuts? I don't have a cresent wrench large
enough, and tongue and groove pliers tend to chew up the nut.

[Deleted User]

One Pipe Steam Questions

Couple of questions that puzzle me. First I have two steam radiators that when they heat up all the way across steam starts to come out of the shut-off valve area, the rod that the handle is attached to. I tried tightening the area but it is not loose, do I need to replace them? Second my steam valves make a loud whistling sound is that normal? I sometimes hear my steam valves turning on and off in a random fashion, is this normal? Has anyone ever used Webstone steam valves? I picked up these real small ones that have a white knob on the end to open and close the valve. The valves fo straight into the radiator. They do not look like the big chrome colored ones?

Sorry for all the questions this is muy first experience with steam radiators.

Steamhead

There are No stupid questions in steam heating

except the ones you don't ask. So ask away, that's why we're here!

Those radiator shutoffs do not need replacement. You just need to re-pack them. Get some good graphite-impregnated string packing- any good hardware store should carry it. With the system off and cold, unscrew the nut and wrap the string around the stem (rod) clockwise, using enough to almost completely fill up the nut. Tighten the nut enough so you feel some resistance when turning the knob. Recheck for proper tightness after the system has heated up.

I'd check all your valves and repack those that need it.

Also check that your system isn't building too much pressure. The pressure cutout on the boiler should stop the burner at a maximum of 2 pounds. This may be contributing to the loud vents and steam leaks. If the steam does not distribute thru the system at low pressures, check the vents at the ends of the steam mains. If there aren't any, or they're too small, have the proper ones installed.

If you're not comfortable doing the above, go to the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate a good steam man near you.

Radiator vents close on temperature, and it is normal for them to cool off and open, then close again when steam gets inside them.

I'm not familiar with Webstone vents at all. Can you take a picture of one and post it here?

Once you get the system running properly, you will likely use considerably less fuel.

If you don't already have it, get Dan's book "The Lost Art of Steam Heating", available on the Books and More page of this site.

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Drod

Leaking

Try a pipe wrench-you can buy a decent one for $10-$15. If you haven't tightened with it or something like it, chances are the seal/joint is not tight enough yet.

Drod

Leaking

Try a pipe wrench-you can buy a decent one for $10-$15. If you haven't tightened with it or something like it, chances are the seal/joint is not tight enough yet.

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

That can be

a difficult place to see exactly where the leak is coming from. If it's coming from the ground joint, you want to put a little bit of teflon tape, teflon paste or pipe dope on the mating surface; just a little bit and put it on the male part.

If the leak is on the threads, remove the nipple and re-dope the threads making sure you get sealant in the roots of the threads.

As far as what wrench to use, Ridgid makes an offset hex wrench that will adjust to those large sizes. The handle is a bit short so you might have to use a short cheater to get some torque.

Best wishes,

Alan

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Cariguy

Cracked fittings

I have found occasionly that the casting can develop cracks at the union caused by age or overtightening. I have had it also occur on a couple of cheap asian imports after a couple of years of use.

Dale

Good comments

from the rest of the posts. As to the valves the inlet valve on a steam radiator is a special application that is designed to have no lip at the bottom so the condensate in the radiator can drain back while the steam is coming in. Thats why they are so big, you can be sure the dead men didn't use anything bigger than necessary, fittings were more expensive than labor in those days. So, I would wonder about the "small" valves. Of course the inlet radiator valves must be full open, never partial open. As to sealant I like " Leak Loc" from high side chemicals. Any wholesaler who sells AC or refrigeration parts will have it, like Johnstone Supply.