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Economical Outdoor Reset Control
JTel
Member Posts: 12
..by the way the control costs around $160 bucks.
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Comments
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Outdoor reset control
I was wondering what was available for outdoor reset control with on/off control. Dont think I need anything fancy, Just an economical control. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Outdoor Reset
I have installed the Honeywell AQ475A Outdoor Reset Control in my own home. I reccomend it, very simple.0 -
Which Type
of reset control are you looking for. Boiler reset or system reset?0 -
Good Question
The job is a 26 x 68 work shop/garage divided into three zones. The heat loss calculations are 48,000 Btu (17000, 15000, 16000 ). I was planing on a primary/secondary system with three crossovers and each with a zone pump. My heat source is going to be a 75 gal. State Industries LP power vent water heater (65000 Btu input @ 80%=52000 Btu output).
My thinking was that a water heater could take the lower temperatures and I would reset the temp. of the system and the water heater with the control and eliminate any kind of mixing device?
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Generally slab
jobs like that run low temperatures, typically below 120. I'm not sure you could get much benefit from reset. What does your design call for, temperature wise, on a design day?
Also be careful not to run water heaters too cold for extended periods, they tend to sweat and corrode quickly, leavinga trail of debris on the burner
hot rod
To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
You are right on ....
You are right on the calculated water temperature is 117.0 -
only thing missing
that I'd like to see on the AQ475A is an adjustable WWSD temp. It's fixed at 70F or 72F depending on where you read.
Indoor feedback might also be nice, but then you're probably out of the range of "simple" :-)
Mark0 -
Reset Control w/Water Heater
I would reset the system vs reseting the water heater. As hot rod stated that condensation will cut down the life of that tank. Seems like your heatloss is rather high for a radiant application and so does your water temp. We design for a 0 degree water temp here and generally we are running between 80-100 degree water to satisfy our 0 degree design temp for a slab application. I have a question though. If I'm understanding this right, you have different zones in this slab. Do you have thermal breaks in the concrete to seperate the zones? If not, why zone it. While that therm may stop the flow for that particular zone will it not stop that zone from continuing to heat. Wouldn't you just be robbing Peter to save Paul. Just a thought.0
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