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Screw This
Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes
Member Posts: 1,243
we have narrowed down our favorite forms of attachment. As you know, we are in earthquake country and local codes are quite stringent when it comes to anchoring and sway bracing in our seismic area.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of everything we use, just some of our most common.
We use sheetrock screws (fine thread) for general, non-load attaching and PST steel stud screws for sheet metal.
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This is by no means an exhaustive list of everything we use, just some of our most common.
We use sheetrock screws (fine thread) for general, non-load attaching and PST steel stud screws for sheet metal.
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0
Comments
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Deck screws
are great for closet flanges; we used to use stainless steel (too expensive) and then galvanized (they rust anyway). Hex washer head sheet metal screws (to the right of the deck screws) are used on ...........you guessed it: sheetmetal.
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Tapcon
screws are a big favorite for light to medium loads in concrete; just drill a 5/32" hole with the supplied drill bit and then screw the 3/16" Tapcon into the hole.
E-Z hangers work for very light loads on sheetrock.
Oops - sorry. Can't seem to change this picture to the correct one. These are "Hanger Mates" for screwing into wood or concrete. The drill bit is self release; it will push itself off the head once it contacts the working surface to prevent over tightening.
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Here's
the shot of Tapcon and E-Z Hangers.
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Flat head
phillips tapping screw are used for a variety of light duty work, i.e. drop ear adaptors mostly; 8x1" and 8x1-1/2".
As you can see, I try to get phillips or hex head screws.
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TEKS
for sheet metal. The tips are actaul drill bits and are very fast at going through heavy gauge sheet metal.
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Threaded
ceiling plates (on the left) and side-beam brackets are useful to carry light to medium loads.
What about you guys? Any favorites?
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who is the manufacturer?
Looks like the threaded part turns independent of the main body on both - the one's I've seen are a solid piece.
Looks like what you have would make "fine tuning" much easier.
Do you use a nut on the all-thread as a lock nut against the plates/brackets?
Mark0 -
Made by Tolco
The threaded part is stationary and your threaded rod screws up into it and no, we don't use a locking nut. I guess you're thinking that it would de-thread. Hasn't been a problem.
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the knurled surface
on the threaded part make it look like some clevis hangers I have where it does move.
My national pipe hanger catalog talks about situations where code (what code I don't know) requires lock nuts. Probably Chicago or NYC when hanging 12in or greater iron pipe :-)
Mark0 -
Is this
done so that the WHOLE house bounces down the road?
Kidding!!
I guess when you don't face that threat everyday you don't appreciate the efforts of those that do.
Hold on tight Alan!! If you ever get tired of the Rock N Roll you can always come to nice, stable NY!!!!
Best wishes!!
Mark H
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Yea
The Snow kinda holds everything in place !!!!!
Scott
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Screwin' around
Alan- Looks like you've got too much time on your hands...quit screwin' around and get to work ;-)
I love the blue Tapcon screws...just discovered them a couple of years ago.
My father used to call me a "screwball" all the time. He usually had a cigar hanging out of his mouth and he would twirl it around when he was checking up on his employees...the madder he got, the faster the cigar twirled.
It sort of acted like a flow meter for his anger.
Paul
0 -
My dad...
used to use a hammer for putting screws in... He'd say "Kid, them slots are for taking them out!"
Sure miss the ol' duffer.
ME
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reminds me of the story of
the carpenter that asked his helper for a screwdriver. Helper hands him a hammer. Carpenter asks again for a screwdriver, helper again gives him a hammer. Repeats a few times until the Carpenter, in frustration, gets his own screwdriver.
Helper then comments "oh, you wanted a screw _remover_".
Mark0
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