Know any Offset Piping Tricks?

Patchogue Phil_2

I have this situation happen often: verticle riser pipe comes up thru floor which leads to a horizontal hydronic baseboard. Previously, the wall had paneling or tile which moves the verticle pipe inward slightly to center of the room. Now without that extra thickness on the wall surface, the baseboard fintube is slightly "off" and the riser pipe no longer lines up with just a 90* elbow.

What I have done is add a couple of extra 45* street elbows horizontally (after the 90*) to "finagle" the offset so that the fin tube sits correctly behind the covers. This looks funky, a weird "S"-turn.

Is there a better way, *WITHOUT* moving the riser pipe (i.e. you do not access to it from below)?

TIA,
Phil

Gary Fereday

Idea?

Careful installtation of a short corrorgated copper flex connector (solder x solder) has been used for that. At one time they were very avalible, even before the W/H connectors were made. I do not know how they stood up over time. Anyway, bigugh

Patchogue Phil_2

corrugated

Thanks for the suggestion. I have also wondered how long those corrugated sweat x sweat flex connectors will last. I haven't bought one in almost 10 years, and that was the only time. Used it at end of 6' pipe to snake behind the front lip of the bathtub and to the perpendicular baseboard. Sortof a backwards question mark shape - ? - kept me from having to go belly crawl under the house! It hasn't leaked so far (knock on wood). A lot more expensive than a few 45* street elbows, tho.

You'd think someone would have invented an offset 90* elbow. I can't be the only one to deal with this situation. Hey, NIBCO you listening? :-)

Maybe a stubby piece of pex-al-pex is the answer?

chris smith_2

off set

phil i use a 90 at top of riser and bend 7/8 od tubing to fit with my bender and swedge one end not too much extra soldering and you can fit about any angle
chris smith
paradise porter
maine

Bob C.

If I understand correcty the riser sounds like its a 1/4" to 1/2" off from the center of the horozontal run that feeds the baseboard. I'm assuming its 3/4" copper tubing. The baseboard element is qutie soft and depending on how far in on the element the "fins" are you (with a little heat) can bend the first six inches of the horozontal tubing towards the wall. It may not look the best, but it will get you out of a pinch.

Patchogue Phil_2

opposite

Actually its the opposite - the baseboard itself is closer to the wall than the the 3/4" riser. But I get your idea.

I've bent copper before with a bender (1/2" doesn't kink as easily as 3/4"). I figure I'd have to lose about 8" of fins to accomodate. And use about a foot or more of pipe to bend to get the right arc, cutting off the ends. Unless I am doing it wrong, the bend area is no longer round and wont accept a fitting. Hence a longer length.

It seems that it's either "Six of one, Half dozen of something else". Fiddle with fittings or bend some pipe and then cut. I'll try some 22 1/2* fittings for the other spots.

Thanks for the tip.
Phil

Patchogue Phil_2

?

Swedge? Does that mean you "open up" or stretch one end of the tubing to accept the male end of the fintube copper pipe?

Thanks for the idea.

hr

Try some

5/8" PAP. it bends easily and has compression or SFI fittings in 3/4" sweat size.

3/4" Watts Onix would work also if you're comfortable with rubber and hose clamps at those temperatures. Real easy to install and flexible.

hot rod

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jeff_25

why not make a swing joint st90 into a st90 into a 90 you should be abel to roll a offset if more is needed use all 90's and it should hide behind the cover unless riser is way out good luck jeff

Cosmo

I have always just

annealed some 3/4L, and used a spring bender to get a curve. Then just cut the piece you need, is stays round enough for a solder fitting. I already have the spring benders for the Central A/C work I do, not expensive at all.
Of course a lot of the other ideas could also work.


Cas