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Honeywell aquastat
Oly
Member Posts: 14
I went on a no heat call where the boiler burner control(Honeywell 8148E) bulb had separated from the capilary tube. Obviously it had been tampered with (As had other system controls). The problem is when I replaced it Yeasterday the operating differential was 60 degrees F.(195 to 135). This is unacceptable. Can't figure out how to adjust. Please advise.
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Comments
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You could....
replace it with an 8124 control. Usually the 8148 is cold start. It is a high limit control. Did you make sure the bulb was fully inserted into the well? I use a piece of wire or a long screw driver to measure the well depth and then use the wire or screwdriver to measure the capillary length.0 -
What about the,
gauge? wouldn't be the first time one was wrong.0 -
Thanks for the suggested replacement. The original was factory installed and I had a hard time getting the bulb in as far as I did ( As far as the tube would allow ). There was some insulation on the boiler that I used to pack in behind it. There is also a redundant high limit that trips out on high hit to match the temperature gauge and I get a major temperature drop. I've never had this happen before so I thought there would be some way of adjusting.0 -
fixed diferential
according to the specs, the differential on an 8148E is fixed at 15degF. The hight limit is adjustable from 180F to 240F
Perhaps you have a defective 8148E?
Mark0 -
L8148E
Suggest you remove and replace the well sometimes the heat transfer compound hardens in the well and you can not get it cleaned out. That is probably how the capillary bulb got broken to begin with. You say you have a redundant high limit???? Is this wired into the millivolt thermocouple (like an ECO) or is it wired in with the boiler limit. The L8148E is an OEM only control that provides 24 volt burner circuit at B1 and B2. Just how is this REDUNDANT LIMIT wired in. Please go into a little more detail as to how this systems is designed to operate. You may just have some controls that are not set properly or not wired properly.0 -
aquastat
Is the well in the tankless section? If so the outside of the coil may be loaded with sediment or the exchanger heat pins on the boiler sections closest and under it might be plugged with soot or ooogy.
al0 -
The boiler is a buderus G124x and I thought all I had to do was to make tv and t (thermostat} cannnections and I would be in business. The redundant high limit I was referring to is an interrupted circuit on the line side of 120vac power supply to the boiler (Honeywell 4006). There was no conductive adhesive used on the factory install. So, I didn't either.0 -
G124X Buderus Boiler
Is the L4006 an A or B? I assume it has its own well. It is not necessary unless some local code requires it to have two limits. The high limit in the L8148E is sufficient. I know some municipal codes want the limit wired on the 120 volt side of the system. Do you have a good gauge you can stick on the boiler to get an accurate temperature reading?
The other thing is something could be on the inside of that well preventing you from getting an accurate temperature sensing on the control.
Do you perhaps have indoor /outdoor reset on this system?
As a temporary test jump out the L4006 to get it out of the circuit and see what you get for operation on just the limit on the L8148E. DO NOT LEAVE IT JUMPED OUT IT IS JUST FOR TEST!!!
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L4006A. Don't think I've ever seen the other. Really need to revisit the Tradeline catalog. Tekmar 360 4-way mix outdoor reset. A priority switching relay provides zone control with the isolated switch calling for boiler to fire. The L4006A is strapped on to the supply of the boiler loop ( setpoint 210 degrees F. ). By adjusting its setpoint the contacts opened at the temperature that corrresponded with the gauge. This system was installed about a year and a half ago and it's never been able to provide heat. I just didn't want to install the third 8148.0 -
Boiler Controls
I have a feeling that the L8148E is okay, get rid of the other limit for the time being . Then make sure the Tekmar control is set up correctly. I would also suggest getting the installer back, I am assuming you are not the installer. The fact that it has never provided heat tells me that it was an installation problem from the beginning. The L4006A being strapped on to the boiler supply could be part of the problem. Many times strap on controls do not sense temperature very well. Is the 4006A using the strap on kit as that is typically a well inserted control?
It seems to me that someone needs to start from scratch and get this system set up correctly. Get hold of someone in your area to assist you with the Tekmar control if you are not checked out your self on Tekmar controls. I find that to work with those controls you need to attend the Tekmar training classes.0 -
Noone has any idea who installed the system. I'm waiting on a fuse replscement for the flame roll out, so as soon as that arrivesI'll be headed over for some more. Think I'll bring one of everything. There are also some interesting piping issues that I didn't mention. Balancing should be a challange, if even possible. thanks for the help!0 -
Let us know how you make out
we want to follow up on this.0 -
you did say oil?
nm0 -
Natural Gas.0
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