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Gypcrete Pour

Troy_3
Troy_3 Member Posts: 479
That's me! Troy 716-649-5723 We pour Elmira, corning, Binghamton and everything in between.

Comments

  • John Gorjanc
    John Gorjanc Member Posts: 2
    Gyprcrete pour

    Here's the situation: New house, RFH going in now. 1/2" pex, 9" oc, tube tracking, all on 2" XPS. Builder was going to pour gypcrete (2" plus)on half of second floor we have tubed already. Gypcrete guy says he can't pour...it's too cold (not above 50F). House is like a sieve, no chance with temporary heaters. Builder want's me to run warm water through the loops already down to keep the gypcrete at the temp it needs to be. Sounds reasonable.
    Question: What temp should we keep the slab at to help out without overheating? What about turning on the warm water to the tubing before the pour or even during the pour? Those loops are going to grow and move around, will that undermine the stability of the gypcrete while curing? Or is it no big deal? Just some thoughts. Any ideas?
    Thanks - John G
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,662
    Crete lightweight

    we were always told that Gypcrete needs 2 weeks of curing time to dry before heating. I've heated it immediately after the pour with no ill effects, but never during the pour. The concrete experts say heatcuring is done all the time with factory castings and vaults. What does your dealer have to say? What's his warranty? I presume you'll use a fracture-proof membrane over the tile areas?
    These are the reasons I've been using GypSpan which is gypsum based, not concrete based, and is not affected by heating immediately. The other issue is if you have 120 degree water in the tubes, the Crete may flash prematurely creating an awful mess.

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  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    Like Paul

    I have run the systems while the gyp is poured, you don't shouldn't need much heat, or water temperature to stay above 50. How cold has it been getting around your area?

    Shout out for Troy Morgan here, he's a gyp expert!

    hot rod

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  • Troy_3
    Troy_3 Member Posts: 479
    heat & gyp

    We heat the tubes before the actual pour and then immediately after initial cure. Don't run heat while the pour is going on. The pex will grow so much your job will look like a mess. If the pour is done in two lifts then we usually don't turn the heat back on till after the second lift is solid enough to walk on. This should be within 2 hours of second lift going down. And make sure the customer leaves windows cracked! I mean this! For every 20 square feet of floor 6 gallons of water were just dumped in their house and when you heat that floor it will all come out fast. Ventilate! ventilate ventilate. If it is cold a small crack will allow the moisture to escape. If it warm up open everything wide. Mold is a serious issue. Gotta love that thermal mass. Call me if you wish 716-913-4166 Troy
  • Al_3
    Al_3 Member Posts: 79
    gyp

    speaking of gypcrete, are there any gypcrete contractors you fella's would recomend in my area, Elmira, Corning NY.
    Thanks---AL
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