Spring Loaded Check Valve Sizing

Walt

I have a 1 1/2" spring loaded ball type check valve in line with a B&G "Little Red Fox" pump on a 1 1/2" copper pipe (as can be seen in pic 20 in my post below). It rattles and otherwise makes a racket. I take it that I should have used a smaller check valve to increase the velocity in the valve body. How do I determine how small I should go? Should I drop to 1 1/4' or 1"? I'm inclined to go down to a 1", because the header is in the basement. If there is a little velocity noise it probably won't travel up stairs. Anyone have a more scientific way of choosing....or a suggestion as to how to avoid changing it out all together. Thanks. Walt

Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes

Check Valve

I'm not an authority on them, but you should not decrease the sizing; If you have 1-1/2" flanges on your circulator, go with an 1-1/2" check valve.

The ones we use have teflon seats; check with your wholesaler.

I saved this info. from The Wall last year:

DATE: Nov 15, 2001
SUBJECT: Flow Checks
NAME: D Spindler

After getting part of my circulator zoned system running, I definitely see &
feel the need for flow checks to be installed. The ghost flow & short
circuiting is amazing. When is it appropriate to use a Taco 218 Flo-Check
(3/4"), verses a spring check or swing check @ 1/2 the cost? Is the Taco
Flo-Check more reliable & dependable or what? Thanks.

Dennis

DATE: Nov 15, 2001
SUBJECT: Flo-checks
NAME: Mike Kraft

My experience with flow ckecks has been mixed.I have used iron body
(been known to screw them till I hear craaack),I have used copper x copper
valves also.All different brands of both.I found that even with tightening the
iron body valves packing they tend to leak @ that gland with time.

As the spring check goes I am leary of the chatter that they make.Way back
when there was a similar thread on this topic.In it someone advocated the
use of spring checks.They named a brand that I cant remember but did say it
was silent.I called my wholesalers but none had heard of it.

I have just installed Grundfoss circs.#15-42 FC......the FC suffix is for flow
check.The flow check is installed in the outlet body.There have of recent
been several threads on circ vs. ZV.Well I gotta say these circs are less then
a V8403E in my neck of the woods.The flow check is in and not a rattler.It
is also serviceable and can be removed with a screwdriver.

cheese
DATE: Nov 15, 2001
SUBJECT: flow checks
NAME: David Fauver

i just use bell & gosset checks, always saves a lot of hasle.


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hr

Size it to the flow

how many GPM are you moving. Check valves will have a Cv rating, that tells you how many GPMs you can flow with a 1lb pressure drop.

A soft seat check will help also. Watts, Conbraco, and most others offer soft seat spring checkk. Don't overheat them if you use a sweat version

hot rod

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Walt

Alan:

Thanks for the reply. The check valve is not a component of the pump. If you past in this link you should be able to see the check valve up stream and around the corner from the pump, just after the take offs for the 4 way valve.

http://forums.invision.net/Attachment.cfm?Pic00020.jpg&CFApp=2&Attachment_ID=1197

I wonder if I swap it for a B&G in 1 1/2" if the chatter will stop?

Regards,

Walt

Walt

Thanks. I'll check the Cv.