I can't get the union stubs out of the radiators.

Mark J Strawcutter

makes machined steel, individually-sized spud keys that go in about 1.5". Machined grooves slide over the "ears". Thick 1-1/16 hex head on the end. I've had good success using them with a Craftsman box-end wrench (about 18" long) although with hot water valves, not steam.

Sounds like the tool you have is one of those universal, stepped models cast out of grainy pot metal?

Someone suggested I soak the joint repeatedly with PB Blaster but I haven't had to resort to that (yet).

Another option is to remove/replace the bushing.

Mark

Luke Lefever

Why can't someone make a decent tool?

I'm trying to remove the old steam radiator valves that have been there for 70 years and install the new ones for water (they have packing around the valve stem). I have this lame cast iron jobby that is supposed to grab the little ears on the inside of the stubs and enable one to remove the stub. Fat chance, all it does is bend. Anyone have the hot ticket for this problem? I've done this before with this tool, only it worked then and I thought I'd be all set for this project too, but NOOOO.... piece of S*it just wants to twist around. I'll be anxiously awaiting the wisdom that is bound to pour in. Thanks in advance, Luke Lefever, Lefever Plumbing & Heating, Inc. Elkhart, Indiana.

Mark Hunt

Hard to undo 70 years of doing!!!

I just cut the female end of the union off of the spud and try to get a wrech on it.

Now I have had the spuds snap off in the radiator which made for some interesting work.

I consider spud wrenches as a "goesinta" tool, and not so much as a "comesoutta" tool. Although they sometimes work.

good luck!!

Mark H



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ScottMP

I agree with Mark

I cut the union nut off diagonally with a hacksaw and then pry it apart with a screwdriver. Once its off you can put a wrench on the spud... 18"... 24"... 36".. cheater bar... its coming out...

Scott

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Gary Fereday

Add to this idea

I to find something solid to shove into the stubb so it will not collaspe. aswedging flare tool or cold chisel handle. That brass collaspes under the the pipe wrench far to easily. ANYWAY BIGUGH

JIM F.

honesty??

> makes machined steel, individually-sized spud

> keys that go in about 1.5". Machined grooves

> slide over the "ears". Thick 1-1/16 hex head on

> the end. I've had good success using them with a

> Craftsman box-end wrench (about 18" long)

> although with hot water valves, not

> steam.

>

> Sounds like the tool you have is one of

> those universal, stepped models cast out of

> grainy pot metal?

>

> Someone suggested I soak the

> joint repeatedly with PB Blaster but I haven't

> had to resort to that (yet).

>

> Another option is

> to remove/replace the bushing.

>

> Mark

JIM F.

honesty??

how many of you have used a reciprocating saw to cut the inside of a nipple in a fitting trying not to score the female threads... very chancy but it works sometimes in a bind.. just gingerly cut the nipple from inside out and chisle the fitting in a little untill you can unscrew it...
just curious how many people have done this???

Paul Pollets

Of course...

cutting the pieces out is common, hoping you don't score the female threads beyond dope. My favorite method is to heat the outer casting surrounding the nipple with my turbo torch for 1-2 minutes. Now the nipple will break loose. I've never had one that wouldn't come out using the heat method. Use caution and heat shields.

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Larry_7

I have used a large chisel

Worked for me. Put an 18" wrench on the chisel and it came right out. This was on hydronic. I felt fortunate, though. I was expecting the ears to break off.

Larry

Earthfire

heat

a trick a old time motor builder machinist taught me for getting out studs and bolts out of engine blocks and manifolds is to heat the iron around the bolt with a torch , get it hot not glowing and use that heat to melt some beeswax (candle etc.)around that offending stud wait a couple of minutes and turn that sucker out. don't use too much heat so wax doesn't scorch

Luke Lefever

These are some great suggestions

I will try a couple of your ideas and let you know what the outcome is. I'm hesitant to heat the radiators with a torch because I'd like to avoid repainting if possible. Thanks so much for the suggestions. Wallies to the rescue!!! I knew I could count on you guys. Thanks again, Luke Lefever

Jacob Myron_3

Radiator valve spuds

The removal of the spuds is simple and requires a hole saw for cutting metal, a chisel and a pick. Some times you may need a tap to repair damaged threads.

If you can't do it get a qualified contractor.

jake

Brian_4

Radiator Spuds

Luke, First lay the radiator on the ground and then use a sawzall to cut the nut off of the spud. Now put a 2' wrench on the spud and use your foot to push the wrench down and back the spud out. If this doesn't work cut the spud closer to the bushing and then using the sawzall again, cut a v-notch inside of the spud nipple. Using a cold chisel you should be able to remove the v and then crush or back the remaining spud out. Good luck

Robw@CCI

We use E-Z outs to 1" and have had good luck with the Pasco spud tool.

flashflood_2

Get the good steel sppud wrench someone mentioned. Put a pipe wrench on the spud wrench and one on the spud nipple and turn them both in unison. Works for me.

jeff_25

i have gotten lucky using knipek piers because they will fit between the nut the bushing also a good easy out is take an ould tap grind the teeth off to make sharp sq. edages they work better than the sprial one you can bye ot still cut off nut and use a good wrench with sharp teeth good luck that why i like a lot of the new valves and traps which are useing sq. or allien inside

Joe at krahezfoo@aol.com

Removing nipples from rads or any other fixture

Guess you have to examine the spud or nipple and decide what condition it is in. Thin walled or severely corroded, bet money that it will collapse. You need something inside it when you try to extract it. PB Blaster is great. Soak it, but let it sit and give it time to work; then try turning it out. If the spud or nipple doesn't want to cooperate- STOP. You could try heat, unless you don't want to repaint or can't use heat in this instance. The next step is to saw through the spud or nipple in at least two places and collapsing it with a cold chisel. A good practice is to chase the female threads with a good die before repiping. I have not always been successful in repiping; have cracked a few radiators or boiler sections; but the success rate is greater than the disappointments. Don't waste your time or money on a cast extraction tool. They break or bend before the nipple comes out. Hope this helps!

Joe at krahezfoo@aol.com

Removing nipples from rads or any other fixture

Guess you have to examine the spud or nipple and decide what condition it is in. Thin walled or severely corroded, bet money that it will collapse. You need something inside it when you try to extract it. PB Blaster is great. Soak it, but let it sit and give it time to work; then try turning it out. If the spud or nipple doesn't want to cooperate- STOP. You could try heat, unless you don't want to repaint or can't use heat in this instance. The next step is to saw through the spud or nipple in at least two places and collapsing it with a cold chisel. A good practice is to chase the female threads with a good die before repiping. I have not always been successful in repiping; have cracked a few radiators or boiler sections; but the success rate is greater than the disappointments. Don't waste your time or money on a cast extraction tool. They break or bend before the nipple comes out. Hope this helps!

Mark J Strawcutter

Pasco tool and Danfoss spuds

The individually sized Pasco spud wrenches fit very well into my existing spuds for removal.

However, when using them to insert new spuds for Danfoss TRVs they were slightly oversized and I had to take 1/64"
or so off using a bench grinder. This was with 3/4", with
the 1" I had to take a bit more off.

I later learned that Danfoss makes their own spud tool(s). Perhaps they anglisized the threads for the north american market but left the inside metric?

Mark

Jason Grossman

I can't believe

no one else mentioned this. Undo the nut and swing the radiator out from the wall. Then remove the valve from the riser. Screw the valve back onto the nut and tighten it. You should be able to back the whole assembly out. If you can't get it in a few minutes, just chop it out (cut two slits with a hacksaw blabe and drive out the wedge with a chisel. the collapse the spud and unsrew.))

Luke Lefever

I GOT 'EM!!!!

I finally got all the stubs out. Here's what worked. Soaking them in penetrating oil for a couple of days. Cut off the union nut with a Sawzall, grab the stub with a 24" pipe wrench and hope that you don't twist it off. Got 11 of them out this way, only broke 2 off. Sliced them internally with the Sawzall and chipped out the pieces with a chisel. Thanks to all the guys who suggested how to proceed. I knew I could count on the Wallies to help me out. Now if I could just finish the boiler installation- my wife would be happy. It's only been below freezing here 3 nights in the last week. Gotta hurry or I'll need a divorce attorney!! Thanks again, Luke Lefever.