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X-Tank Strap
Alan(CaliforniaRadiant)Forbes
Member Posts: 1,243
but we now strap our tanks better than we did before; it was as simple as an 8" iron pipe strut clamp for the small tanks and a 10" for the size -30 tanks.
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Comments
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That is super,
> but we now strap our tanks better than we did
> before; it was as simple as an 8" iron pipe strut
> clamp for the small tanks and a 10" for the size
> -30 tanks.
>
> _A
> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=
> 53&Step=30"_To Learn More About This Contractor,
> Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A
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Damn!!
Smoke em if you got-em!Is that a #5 or #4?You surfn' dudes love a good blaze:)........PS Damn nice looking panel you got going there Alan and dudes!
cheese
Whos expansion tank is that alan?0 -
took me longer
Didn't have a good method myself 'til you made this post. Now I'll pitch it as the "value added" difference between me and those East Bay shysters. Thanks,
Bill0 -
I've been tinkering
with some of the various Sioux Chief pipe hangers. The load is not a problem, but I have to check on the temperature rating of the various plastics. I just added an extra stainless hose clamp to extend the reach.
hot rod
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Cheese..
that is a Vent-Rite expansion tank if I am not mistaken...kpc0 -
Been using the
Sioux Chief gridiron bracket with ss clamp for supporting x-tank. It works, but I'm not satisfied. I think Allan's approach is a lot more solid.
Bill0 -
Another tank mount idea
If I want to remote mount the tank, I use a piece of angle iron with a coupling welded on provides a solid mount. Maybe even "seismic" solid
hot rod
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His guys obviously
don't like standing around waiting for the joint to come up to temp... Hope they keep that torch moving. Holding it in one spot for too long will "fry" the flux and the joint won't tin at that spot.
I used to solder by holding the torch in just one spot until the joint flowed, until I happened to cut one apart once and what I saw caused me to change the way I solder.
That's one of the primary reasons the inspectors have not begun enforcing the water soluable flux laws (yes, LAWS)
The plumbers who used it had such a high joint failure rate taht they convinced the inspectors that it wasn't doable. The inspectors need to tell the plumbers to learn how to solder properly, and holding the torch in one spot is NOT the correct way.
How do YOU solder...
I follow the CDA requirments, with a few of my own common sense modifications, like not allowing anyone to cut a hole in the lid of their flux can. I throw away 2 cans of flux with the lids cut open before I start charging them for cans of flux. The manufacturers put lids on flux cans to keep the dirt out, not to hold flux brushes.
Soldering correctly is so easy. I go through a lot of toilet paper when I'm soldering. I'm looking into the "perfect" soldering system. Electric resistance heating. Perfect even proper heat. And it works with water soluable flux, perfectly...every time. Check this out.
http://www.industrialmarts.com/Web/a soldering.html
ME
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Even though
we work in a pretty dirty environment, not much dirt gets in those flux cans; but since flux is hydrophilic, we have to tip the can over to drain the water out every now and then. We also change acid brushes often.
After the boiler boards are piped, we do a 100# hydrostatic pressure test on the primary and secondary piping, let it sit overnight and then insulate and wire.
Here's a picture of the Swep double-walled heat exchanger, direct from Sweden. They will even put a Kiwa certification sticker on it for no additional charge to impress your inspectors.
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Did you know...
it is illegal to install an expansion tank in the bottom of an air elimination (scoop or MBR) device... It must be set on the floor in a rigid mount and remotely piped to the air eliminator.
My guess is that they had way too many expansion tank failures due to the improper application of a tank in what is virtually an open (polybutylene and E2 tubing/hose) system, and the tanks are rotting off due to the 02.
I personally have never had one of my tanks fall off. Had a few spring leaks (potable tanks) that WERE properly applied, so it just goes to show ya, just when you think you know what you're doing, Ma Nature steps up and smacks you along side the head and tells ya "You don't know squat!!"
Whooda thunk.
ME
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Those orange dealies
in the middle of the bench. Are they tubing cutters or emery cloth rotary tubing cleaners?
I'm a fanatical perfectionist when it come to cleaning copper joints (2 leaks in 12 yrs, honest)and don't leave anything to chance. And if there's a better way to do it, I would love to know what it is.
One thing I've learned, is to only clean & flux as much tubing as I want the solder to stick to. Solder doesn't grab on to dirty or un-fluxed tube. I clean/flux no more than 1/8th" of tube sticking out from the fitting, but still don't get as beautiful jobs as you guys do (
Really nice work, Alan & crew. Keep it up.
Brian.
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mark...
where is that written?? If that is the case every air scoop/eliminator and every expansion tank company has had improper literature for years...kpc0 -
Good eye Kevin...
Funny how two little words can completely change a statement. I meant to say "In New Mexico, it is illegal to hang a tank on blah blah blah..." It is in their addendun to the UMC.
Sorry if I mislead anyone.
ME
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The orange pipe cutter dealies!
The orange Donuts are pipe cutters from General Wire (the same people that make drain cleaning machines). I have them in 3/4" and 1/2"- man are they sweet in a tight space, but they do leave one hell of a burr on the inside when done with the cut. Just snap them on and rotate. Nice little idea. I don't use them for production work, just in tight spaces for repairs. Hope this answers your question. Luke Lefever, Lefever Plumbing & Heating, Inc., Elkhart, Indiana0 -
Orange dealies
Thanks, Luke. I appreciate the heads-up. I'll check with my "Coburns guy", he'll get them for me.
Must go to work, y'all take care out there.
Brian, in hurricane alley. (Lili was a Lulu)0 -
Swampy
Like Luke said, those little orange things are great in tight spaces. They're better than the close cutters Ridgid and Reed make because you don't have to keep on tightening them after each revolution of the pipe; they're spring loaded.
You just open the jaw, place the tool around the pipe, close the jaw and turn until it cuts through. All those ridges on the outside make it very easy to grip, even with flux all over your hands.
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not quite siesmic
empty tank is fairly light, but a tank full of water and the 1st good jolt left, right or front will throw the tank at the floor sink....it survives the 1st jolt backwards, but probably rolls on the bounceback...0
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