re-joining cast iron baseboards

Paul_8

Recently had two 6-foot sections of cast-iron baseboard joined into a 12 foot section. Several weeks after the installation, got a substantial leak in the joint. I dis-assembled the rad and found the contractors had overtightened the bolt and cracked one of the sections at the bolt-tightening point.

Two questions:
1. After removing the push nipples used for the initial assembly and replacing them with new ones, can I just replace the one cracked section with a new one and join the new section with the unbroken initial section? Or do I have to replace both radiator sections as well as the push nipples?

2. When joining two cast-iron radiator sections with push nipples, is the most common practice to use permaseal or teflon paste on the push nipples, or just a drop of oil?

Thanks in advance.

Mark Hunt

As long as


only one section is cracked, that is all you have to replace.

When joining cast baseboard all I have ever used was a small amount of "Rector Seal".

Depending on the type of baseboard you have, there is a tool that will pull the sections together rather than using bolts to do it.

Hope this helps!!

Mark H

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J.C.A.

And ,

Don't forget to specify which side you need ! (leg right /leg left ) I hate when after all the waiting they send the wrong side or worse yet , a center section . We also used only Rectorseal #5 .If you used something that hardens , do you think you'll be able to get it apart if you have to later? Best of luck . Chris

Bill NTSG

Draw up tool

Is really the best way to do it. I inherited one from my dad about 30 years ago. It is a heavy cast tool with two fingers and a cam like handle that when you push down it draws the sections together. You might be able to borrow one from an old timer or maybe your supply house. Do Not use just the bolt[to draw the sections together], it will crack'em every time. The bolt is to hold it together after it is drawn up. If no tool is available , lay your sections on a flat level surface and nail or screw a block to the floor at one end. On the other take an oak block and a hammer and drive the sections together while making the bolt up. Hit it firmly but brute strength is not the thing here. You always want the ends to be joined square and drawn up evenly. I have cracked more than a few and it gets expensive. New push nipples are best but used ones can be cleaned up. I like to put a small amount of pro-dope on the surfaces. Too much dope will cause a hydraulic effect and try to push the joint apart. Never carry the assembled sections flatways,always stand 'em up [like they attach to wall] and always wait for help.

ScottMP

Just so he's not confused

You mean, don't use the bolt to draw them together. He still needs the bolt to secure the sections.

I allways borrow one from my supplier. Every time I think I should buy it, then I remember how mnay times a year I use it. Think I'll just keep borrowing it.

Scott

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Paul_8

\"Cheater tool\"

Wow! Great forum.
Thanks for the excellent, prompt advice, guys! I was aware of the "cheater tool" to draw the sections together. In fact I did put one together for the main floor living room myself that is holding up well. But to do the basement, I hired a couple of heating contractors that turned out to be a disaster. I suspect they tried to pull in the two sections without the tool before going back to the supply house to borrow one.

The reason I thought I might have to replace both sections is if they might possibly have ruined the nipple receptacle (?) of the left-side section (which was not cracked) or scored it in some way if they just tried to draw the two sections together with the bolt. ((I'm thinking about how you don't try to use the same ferrul on a plumbing compression fitting if it has been used previously.)) Not to worry?

And thanks, guys, for mentioning not to use too much sealant in the re-assemble.

Bill NTSG

Sorry Scott

Yer right might be a little confusing. Do not use the bolt to draw it up. Use it to hold it together. Do you want me to bring something to the party? Chips maybe?

Mark Hunt

HEY BILL!!!!!!


Scott seems to be stuck on Woodstock again.

Maybe instead of chips you should bring a mushroom salad. (wink wink)

Mark(Far out man)H

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tim from Reed Wright

cast baseboard

One last message, it helps to cut 2 - 1" pieces of black iron appx 30" long for use on draw tool ears. gives a little leverage but don't push hard. Also make sur you use bottom supports in the 12 ft run. Maybe 3 or 4 .If they were not in there, this could have caused the bolt ears to crack also.

Paul_8

Tim, thanks for the tip about extenders for the tool. I do have a couple of pieces of 1.5" galvanized pipe that I used with my pipe wrenches to dis-assemble the gravity heating system.
You do raise a good point about the additional support for a 12 foot section. I did have about 5 tie bolts into the studs. One heating guy I had spoken with said he always wall mounts the baseboard above the floor so that if somebody wants to install pad and carpet, it doesn't block the ventilating source for the baseboards. But I wonder if the tie-bolts are enough. With a right and left section, there are only two "feet" when combined.

This is one helluva great discussion board! I love it the way folks suggest tricks and tips that would easily be overlooked by a non-pro.