Help!! Excess draft

mark anderson

I want to reduce my draft by adding a second barometric.Will two barometrics (RC brand)coordinate well together and what procedure do you recommend for tuning them? Or should I just use one barometric and put a hole further down the line on the stack pipe.I currently removed the whole barometric and get a draft reading of .03 to 04 to the right of 0.When the cold wind blows it gets worse.If I leave an open hole and install another barometric closer to the boiler I worry that in the summer I wont have enough draft also the .03 to .04 fluctuates to much for good efficiency. I want a steady .02

Thank you.

John@Reliable

Mark,you can use two,

pick up a FREE book from Field Control that will show you proper design

mark anderson

Not familiar with company called field control

Im a homeowner and not familiar with the different companies.
I only have use of the combustion test equipment for today.

Thx

Mad Dog

This a question for the great Jim Davis of NCI (the CO and draft

expert. I don't mean to be cute, but if you never heard of the Field control company, perhaps you shouldn't be attempting these repairs: they are one of the biggest - if not THEE biggest draft and damper companies around. Before yo touch it again, I would seek Jim's advice....just don't want to see anyone get hurt - we just had a family in Brooklyn die of co poisoning from a poorly done job Good luck Mad Dog

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heatboy

What equipment......

are you working with, Mark? You state that you desire a -.02. Is this over fire or at the breech? Is this a boiler or furnace? What brand? Negative or positive in the burn zone? If you can tell us this, we can give you a better idea what to do. Yes, you can use two, even three barometrics to reduce the draft to the required reading.

Warm Regards,

heatboy

climatecadvanced.com

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mark anderson

Cant find an oil man to do the job correctly

The reason Im in the basement is beacause the oilman I hired to put in the stack did a bad job.He never calibrated it and since he cant use his own equipment he never did a combustion test.
I wanted a new buderous g215 installed in my home but couldnt get a qualified tech to install it. every tech around here only knows two words "BURNHAM" and "Beckett".

I had to take the state exam myself,signup with fw webb buy it and install it myself.I hired my oil company tech to do the oil lines and stack pipe and give it its final tune-up.He couldnt even do that correctly!!!!I had to finish the job to make it pass inspection.It did pass the inspection.

Since Im not in the business, These company names im not familiar with.

Is there a web site for this company??

THX
MARK

Alan R. Mercurio

Two things that may help.

Mark, Here is the web site for Field Controls http://www.fieldcontrols.com/

The other thing you may want to try is the link hanging from the pipe at the top of this page. It says "Find a contractor" Click on that then enter your zip code anyone listed, I'm certian will be very qualifide.

Your friend in the industry,
Alan R. Mercurio

mark anderson

THX heatboy Enclosed are detailed specs

I measure at the breech sometimes higher than right of 0 ".05" And I get a o.f. of a wopping .10 to the left of zero.
Engineers at carlin and buderus suggest .02 and a o.f. .05 left of zero.
I have a
Buderus G215
Carlin 99frd, 14,000v transformer
nozzle is 1.25 80 b
air shutter is a blank set at "3"
Air band setting is 65
forced hotwater
oil
no outdoor reset

When I remove the Barometric I get the following readings
draft breech= .02 o.f. .05 ( as factory rec,s)
smoke "0"
c02 = 12.5
net stack temp= 300f

I want to maintain these readings. but I can not with the current barometric in place.

THX for your help

Steamhead

Mark, you probably have an old chimney

that was designed to pull air thru a coal fire. This required a lot more draft capability than is needed for oil or gas. It's not uncommon for one of these chimneys to overpower a new boiler. Two draft regulators would probaby work well, but they must be installed properly.

Don't let that inept oilman sour you on heating contractors. There are lots of good ones out there. The more you know- and since you've passed the state exams you're way ahead of most HOs- the better a good contractor will look as you search. Use the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate one near you. This way, you'll know the job was done right.



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Jim Davis

Oh Yeah-Put me on the spot! No problem. Two barometrics are okay. I not sure even Field controls would have a picture of two. Another way is to install what is called a neutral pressure point or flue restrictor. Cutting a 3"or4" slot in the bottom of the flue if it is horizontal. or in the side if it is vertical and then slide a sheet metal plate into the pipe until the barometric is about 1/3 closed. In a small flue 2 barometrics is the simplest solution.

jon_6

> I measure at the breech sometimes higher than

> right of 0 ".05" And I get a o.f. of a wopping

> .10 to the left of zero. Engineers at carlin and

> buderus suggest .02 and a o.f. .05 left of

> zero. I have a Buderus G215 Carlin 99frd,

> 14,000v transformer nozzle is 1.25 80 b air

> shutter is a blank set at "3" Air band setting

> is 65 forced hotwater oil no outdoor

> reset

>

> When I remove the Barometric I get the

> following readings draft breech= .02 o.f. .05 (

> as factory rec,s) smoke "0" c02 = 12.5 net

> stack temp= 300f

>

> I want to maintain these

> readings. but I can not with the current

> barometric in place.

>

> THX for your help

jon_6

excessive draft

As a service tech for 4 yrs you should check draft in the worst conditions such as in the summer time and adjust accordinly to manufactures specs. know on to the case of the stack temp at 300 deg you should try to achieve temps 350 deg to 450 deg.thier is 2 baffles in the buderus you can take out and also increase stack temp. you need these temps to keep the chimney from condisation "whashing" out. and the co2 should be dropped down to 11.5 to 12 % when you increase the air on the gun this will lower co2 and raise stack temp. check to see if the carlin is a custom gun,pump pressures are usually set at 150psi to 190psi i dont know why they are using a 80 nozzle pattern?

mark anderson

can this problem be solved????? getting desperate

I appreciate the help. Still having problems
By removing the barometric I managed to reduce the draft but the burner still locks out.

I thought the excessive draft was the culprit but possibly not. I started cheing out the draft because after long down times the burner did not want to restart. On the advise of carlin I changed the specs.air,co2,shutter,draft etc.It worked for the first night with no lockout but this afternoon.It called for heat and no action.

This whole system is brand new,I assume it needs to be adjusted and that no parts are already broken.

I checked the obvious but the problem is not so transparent.
#1 I rechanged the nozzle
#2 I adjusted the electrodes
#3 I changed the oil pump filter
#4 Oil pressure is a steady 150 (I have a permenant gage)
#5 I did a vacuum check, though the results wernt exactly clear,it seemed that no air is in lines,though I see small oil leak arond top of Garber filter.

What NEXT??????

Bob Bona_4

what

WAS the vacuum? This is very important. Only time draft may have a effect on a burner lockout is if it is extremely high and cause problems around the head of the burner-in your case it sounds like this is not a factor. Carlin's do not take an 80 degree nozzle..45, 60 or 70 in some cases. I think you may be asking for too much perfection in that draft reading..set it for spec and let the weight do the rest over the changing seasons. I have no idea of your grasp over burner set-up but maybe you should work with a pro, at least? A puffback from malaligned electrodes or too much air is truly a heart-stopping experience:)

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mark anderson

An unsolvable puzzle !!!!!!! The vacuum was \"0\"

I tested the vacuum at pump inlet inline with the oil line on a t.

"0" is the reading. if I close the valve at the oil tank it will rise to 25.

I have 20' of oil line on the ground. Burner and oil at same level, two filters (garber and slight leak).

Alan R. Mercurio

Here are the reccomended settings

G215/3

Carlin EZ-1

Fuel Pupm Psi 150
Nozzle .85 60° B
Head Setting 1.0
Air Setting 0.75
Stack Temp 305 F°
Draft Over the Fire +.06

G215/4

Carlin 99FRD

Fuel Pupm Psi 150
Nozzle 1.25 60° B
Head Setting 4.0
Air Setting 0.65
Stack Temp 400 F°
Draft Over the Fire +.03

G215/5

Carlin 99FRD

Fuel Pupm Psi 150
Nozzle 1.50 60° B
Head Setting 4.0
Air Setting 0.1
Stack Temp 400 F°
Draft Over the Fire +.05

† Overfire pressures are measured at the measuring plug adjacent to the sight glass.

Set breaching pressure to - .02 to -.03 In. WC.
Above settings were established with baffles in place on the G215/3, G215/4 and G215/5 boilers.

No baffles are furnished with the G215/6 and G215/7.

Also With a full tank of fuel around 20' away gravity fed I would not expect to see much of a vacuum reading.

For example if you were firing at the 1.50 GPH I would not expect to see much more than 1" of vacuum.

Your friend in the industry,
Alan R. Mercurio

Bob Bona_4

what

model Buderus is it? 215 what?

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heatboy

Add a second regulator....

and set it after the primary barometric is fully open. This will take care of the problem since you are not that far off. Not that you need to be told this, but keep calling people until you find someone that can actually use a combustion analyzer. Believe it or not, we are out here ;-)

Warm Regards,

heatboy

climatecadvanced.com

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Bob Bona_4

beat

me to it Alan. And I think that is all we can do from here!

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mark anderson

Buderus G215-4 Carlin 99frd

Alan R. Mercurio

Mark, I have been reading back through the threads above and as others have mentioned you have indicated that you're using a 80° spray pattern however you'll notice the specs call for a 1.25 60° B nozzle.

This really can make a difference.

Your friend in the industry,
Alan R. Mercurio