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Wiring Dilemma
Jamie Pompetti
Member Posts: 82
First I would like to apologize for how I am going to write this. I am extremely tired, between work and the little bundle of joy that insist on staying up alllllll night I am exhausted.
I really hope someone can help me with this. I'm having a pretty hard time trying to figure out how to wire it.
Project specifications.
4 injection radiant zones (all remote, do to house construction)
2 hydro zones (for fall & spring)
1 hot water maker
The job was speced w/ 2 wirsbo Promix 212, Buderus G124x w/ a logimatic control, and a buderus hot water maker!
I piped the system P/S with a complete loop and the boiler tied in as a secondary loop. (The two tees about 10" apart) Since it is done this way I actually have two primary pumps. There is one on the large loop with the air separator and expansion tank. And the other on the return side of the boiler. If I am correct these should run at the same time? (There is actually a picture on the wall labeled Buderus)
Question:
Has anyone wired this system before? It seems a little redundant w/ the logimatic and the injection set back.
How do I make the promix and the logimatic talk to one another? Wirsbo tech support seemed as confused as I was and Buderus came up with this solution.
They said to wire the logimatic normally
The hot water-maker wired into the logimatic. Then us the Wirsbo / Erie Circ. Relay to control the primary pumps and the two hydro-air zones. (They want me to jump out the t-stat on the primary pumps so they run continuos) They said when the hot-water maker calls it would shut of the Wirsbo / Erie control and give priority to the hot-water maker. They said that the logimatic will keep the boiler hot at all times but be set back for the outdoor temp.
Then they want me to wire the Promix as shown by Wirsbo but not to hook up the end switch. They want this system to run independently.
Confused???????????????????? I am.
HELP
Jamie
I really hope someone can help me with this. I'm having a pretty hard time trying to figure out how to wire it.
Project specifications.
4 injection radiant zones (all remote, do to house construction)
2 hydro zones (for fall & spring)
1 hot water maker
The job was speced w/ 2 wirsbo Promix 212, Buderus G124x w/ a logimatic control, and a buderus hot water maker!
I piped the system P/S with a complete loop and the boiler tied in as a secondary loop. (The two tees about 10" apart) Since it is done this way I actually have two primary pumps. There is one on the large loop with the air separator and expansion tank. And the other on the return side of the boiler. If I am correct these should run at the same time? (There is actually a picture on the wall labeled Buderus)
Question:
Has anyone wired this system before? It seems a little redundant w/ the logimatic and the injection set back.
How do I make the promix and the logimatic talk to one another? Wirsbo tech support seemed as confused as I was and Buderus came up with this solution.
They said to wire the logimatic normally
The hot water-maker wired into the logimatic. Then us the Wirsbo / Erie Circ. Relay to control the primary pumps and the two hydro-air zones. (They want me to jump out the t-stat on the primary pumps so they run continuos) They said when the hot-water maker calls it would shut of the Wirsbo / Erie control and give priority to the hot-water maker. They said that the logimatic will keep the boiler hot at all times but be set back for the outdoor temp.
Then they want me to wire the Promix as shown by Wirsbo but not to hook up the end switch. They want this system to run independently.
Confused???????????????????? I am.
HELP
Jamie
0
Comments
-
How many
different water temperatures are you trying to get?
It sounds like what Buderus said will work.
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Here are the wiring diagrams from both companies.
We are running 4 different radiant temps.
And maintaining about 180 degrees in the primarry loop.0 -
Logomatic Control
Buderus is right! It would have been better to just use the Logomatic with their optional fm241 mixing card and a Honeywell 2 way mix valve. I would save you lots of money. If I can help....call me. (800)925-5579. I have extensive experience with the Logomatic.0 -
Jamie
How are you coming with this job? How far along are you as far as the piping and control work? Are you using an indoor feedback type control on any of the four radiant zones or are they running off a regular t-stat?
If it were me.......... this is what I would do. I would not run the boiler at 180* constant. It defeats the purpose of the O/D reset. Set your room target temp up to about 80* on the Logamatic to raise your minimum water temp. This will give the Hydro-air zones enough temp to work with if the air handlers have a decent coil in them. (Good ones will literally pour out the btu's with water temps of 140*. Check out Enerzone out of London Ontario)
For the radiant zones, use Buderus' mixing card to drive either a mixing valve motor or a 2-way mix valve. The card will run off the same outdoor sensor and drive the pump for the mixed zones, tracking whatever temp limits you punch into it. Set the temp parameters for the highest required radiant zone, then use a regular thermostatic 3-way mix valve as a high limit for the rest of the lower temp radiant zones. Set them to deliver whatever max temp you need for those. Your pumps can run off whatever pump panel you decide to use.
Buderus has piping and wiring schematics for what I'm talking about. I've done it like this and it works great. Less complicated by far. Another big plus in my humble opinion is dealing with one company on the layout. Only one place to call when you have problems and they understand ALL of the equipment involved. Talk to Dr. Lou, Kevin or Jake at Buderus about it. Tell 'em I sent you. 1-800-283-3787
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