Hydronic curtain

Mike T., Swampeast MO

Trying to force warm air down from the ceiling across any appreciable length is likely an exercise in futility. I think you'd have to blow so much hot air that you'd severely overheat the room. Less velocity and it won't make it down to where they're seating (am guessing here); less actual heat and the velocity is likely to be just as uncomfortable.

I'd examine the window very carefully. If old and leaky, have some SERIOUS weatherproofing done. Some applied glass coatings can help radiate heat back into the room in the winter/keep it out in the summer. Unless they have a spectacular view that they want to keep utterly unmodified, this is an important route to investigate.

The relatively gentle "natural" convection of a high-output baseboard heater beneath the glass might be your best bet.

Go down the frozen food aisle of a big grocery store to see the problem. Even with the modern all-glass front freezers, you feel unnaturally cool in this aisle when the actual air temp is quite comfortable. You're fighting the radiation from the occupants bodies through the glass and to the great outdoors.

Bigheadtodd

Hydronic curtain

I have a large living room, with a huge window in the middle of the room. Would like to wash this window with warm air from above, any body out there have some ideas?

This is a remodel. Room has radiant floor, HO complain that they are cold at times. There is supplemental heat( toe kick), but the window still sucks heat from every body in the room, need some kind of ceiling vecotr, can't chop up the joist though, need some kind of lateral hydronic solution, has to go in the lid, any thoughts, thanks BHT

kf_2

Quiet-One

makes an FL100 floor vector that is made to fit between 16"O.C. joist bays. Could this fit your application.


hope this helps

kf

Paul Pollets

Why not

pipe in a wall panel radiator under the window? Is it floor-to-ceiling glass? You could also do a radiant ceiling panel or ceiling radiator.

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eleft_4

cold radiating from window

Someone didn't do their home work. Why install supplemental heat?


Band aids won't cure this and what you are thinking will screw up the purpose of the radiant heat. Remove the window and install a quality low E Anderson. Why didn't the remodeler do this knowing it was to be radiant heat?
Same ol' same ol' "measure twice cut once" Bite the bullet, do it right.



al

hr

I've used floor vectors also

Used the VRV Quiet one with the floor mount boxes. A large tall timber frame with floor to celing glass. I used 4 units controlled by a Goldline setpoint. I don't trust those small snap disc thermostats, and the setpoint control allowed me to play with kick on temperatures and differentials.

The radiant floor was on an outdoor reset as it ramped up at near design days, the floor units would kick on and blanket the glass with warm air. Worked fine.

The supplemental heat required was shown on the original design in this case, being a new home. Using the floor units was about the only way to get the extra heat into the room with glass to the floor. Lots of BTUs in a small package.

Plenty of options, depends on accessiblity and what the customer prefers for emitters.

hot rod

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Mike Kraft

I agree

with Mr Pollets.Go with the panel rad.You can probably expand the RF manifold and size the panel to your operating temp. you got more radiant heat where its needed!I'm guessing the window is new since you said its a remodel.

cheese

Big Ed

B&G Hydro

Here is Paul's solution in a old B&G ad.......