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boiler temp

John_11
John_11 Member Posts: 40
Hello all, my new heating system had a chance to show its stuff this weekend. It is 100% new hot water baseboard. The temp is set at 160 deg. but it took 1hr 10min. to have the house go from 59 to 64. It was not that cold outside so there was not much heating differential. I think this took too long. I think the temp of 160 is to low. Is my assumption correct? I know all heating systems are different but any suggestion on the proper temp range? Thank you. John

Comments

  • heatboy
    heatboy Member Posts: 1,468
    What was the ambient outdoor temp?

    If it only took an hour to raise the temp 5°, that's not bad. Hydronic system are not, or shouldn't be, designed for quick recovery.

    hb

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  • John_11
    John_11 Member Posts: 40


    Out side temp was around 55°.
  • Mark Eatherton1
    Mark Eatherton1 Member Posts: 2,542
    Sounds reasonanble to me...

    Don't forget that the convectors are also having to raise the MASS temperature in the home too. 180 degree water might make it recover quicker, but theoretically speaking, you'd only need that hot a water at design condition.

    The key is to not let it get so low during set back cycles.

    I think you'll be fine once it's got all the mass fully charged and up and running. You might have to boost to 180 when you get to an ambient of around 0 degrees F. They do make controllers that do this automatically...

    ME

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  • Floyd
    Floyd Member Posts: 429
    House temp. dropped...

    to 59 with the outdoor temps. only at 55????
    Did you have the windows open?????
    Have you NO insulation????
    Something isn't adding up here...at least not with the info provided.
    Not water is not Hot air!!!!!! GOOD things take TIME!!!!!
    You may be okay, but it's hard to tell from what you have provided so far.
  • John_11
    John_11 Member Posts: 40


    The house was opened up all night, Windows opened and some fans on too. This time of year in Vermont it can be hot around mid evening and then it can turn to a cool night in just a few hours. This is what happened in this case.
  • An easy way

    to determin if heat is being absorbed by the space is to measure water temperature in and out of the baseboard. If the drop across your coil is low, either you are pumping too fast or the convector is not doing it's job. If the boiler can handle the demand, slow down the pumping, increase the delta T (temperature drop) and the system should heat up. If not, a good tech can trouble shoot and find what the issue is

    Welcome to heating season
    Henry
  • Pat
    Pat Member Posts: 25
    response time

    Do you have baseboard? If so, make sure damper is open and carpet is not blocking the element from below. Just a thought!
  • John@Reliable
    John@Reliable Member Posts: 379
    Temp. recover

    John , what kind of aquastat are you using? Are you also getting hot water from unit? If honeywell 8124 set hi @180 lo @ 160 diff @15-20
  • John_11
    John_11 Member Posts: 40


    It is a honeywell but I am not sure what the model number is, I will check tonight. But I do know I can only select one temp, NOT a high and a low.
  • John_11
    John_11 Member Posts: 40


    How do you slow down the pumping? Is there an adjustment on the circulator?

    How could my converter not be doing its job? I would think it would not have a choice to not work if it has hot water going through it.
  • Bill Clinton
    Bill Clinton Member Posts: 75
    output of system

    Traditional hydronic design calls for sizing the heat emitters to barely meet the design heat load. With today's tight construction, that's a mistake because thermal mass remains the same no matter how well the house is insulated. The result of sizing to design load is slow response.

    In your case, consider using indoor/outdoor reset to allow higher temperatures to occur while warming a cold house. At the high end, the control can run up to 200 degrees or even more to get things going, then back off to maintain. This is of course providing the boiler has the extra capacity to crank out more heat than the design load.

    Bill
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