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Would like steam vent capacity info.

Boilerpro
Boilerpro Member Posts: 410
Just recieved my dead man steam school packet and would like additional venting info than in the workbook. Anybody have the capacities for Dole main vents and the variable vents (Dole and Hoffman in particular) at different settings? Would really like to work out a procedure for balancing steam systems with boilers sized to the structure load rather than the system load, rather than trying to balance on site by guesstimate. BTW The Armstrong vents out here appear to be Gortons, but with a full set of orifices ( 4 to D)so they can be fine tuned.

Boilerpro

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    Some of it's in there, Dave

    Dole, Hoffman, and Heat-timer adjustable radiator vents are in the chart where you see "high setting". The VentRite adjustable rad vent is comparable to the Hoffman and Dole #1A vents.

    The Dole main vents I've seen since that chart came out were comparable to the Hoffman #4/4A vents.

    The Maid-o-Mist vents are the same as the Armstrong, with replaceable orifices.

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  • Boilerpro
    Boilerpro Member Posts: 410
    Was wondering what the capacities are at setting of 1, 2, 3 etc

    The chart on pg 27 only shows the high setting. BTW Does the Gorton number 1 have any advantage over the D....they both show the same venting rate.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    More vent info

    With the adjustable rad vents there seems to be too much variation in the actual venting rate at a given setting (except when fully open) to chart them. You can run them at settings to equal the Gorton/Armstrong/MoM vents from the #4 to the #6, except for the Heat-Timer vent which equals the #D.

    The Gorton/Armstrong/MoM #D vents are large radiator vents, while the #1 is a main-line vent. But if space is cramped, you can drill & tap a 1/8" pipe thread hole into the side of a steam main and put a D on it. This works great on counterflow mains that almost touch the ceiling where they end. OK, you don't have the vent sitting on a "standpipe" doing it this way, but a well-functioning system won't have any water-hammer to protect the vents from in the first place.

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  • Boilerpro
    Boilerpro Member Posts: 410
    Sounds like the only difference between Gorton D and the NO.1...

    is the size of the threads, the 1/2- 3/4 threads on teh No. 1 being more convenient for main piping. I am thinking of using 2 Armstrong vents with the D orifices (1.4 cfm) on the end of one longer main with 2.7 cu/ft of air. On the shorter main with 1.74 cu ft of air, 2 Armstrong vents and use one D (1.4cfm) and one 6 (.8cfm) orifice. Should be able to give me near perfect steam balance rather than using two Gorton No. 1 on both mains. Whatchathink?

    Boilerpro
  • Boonierat
    Boonierat Member Posts: 58
    Steam Vent Capacities

    Dan H. covers this real well in video #4 of his Dead Men's Steam School Video set. The manual he sent me also has a breakdown of various capacities on a bunch of different brands and models. I'm at work now, data is home, sorry. If you can't get your hands on it let me know, I'll get it out to you.
    Nels

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  • Boilerpro
    Boilerpro Member Posts: 410
    Thanks Nels, Was looking for some not listed in Workbook

    Steamhead gave me some info, If you have some not listed in workbook, I'd be glad to have the additional info. (So would Dan and Steamhead, I bet)

    Boilerpro
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    That looks real good to me, Dave

    but remember, on these old systems there may be some variables that you can't see. Steam mains rarely if ever get buildups of dirt or sludge in them, but something as simple as whether or not the pipe was properly reamed can change how fast the steam moves. I've run into mains that cried out for more or less vent capacity than I'd calculated.

    I've found that if there's a difference of up to 20 seconds or so in how fast the steam reaches the vents on different mains in the same system, it doesn't affect the basic balance much. You want to get them as close as you can, and it's great if you can get them perfectly synchronized (and you'll amaze the owner by doing so) but a few seconds difference doesn't usually hurt.

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