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do I need to install a liner?
Stray
Member Posts: 29
Hi all, I'm lookin' for some help...
I have a block and brick chimney built in the 50's that I need to have re-done (weathering over the years, mortal loose/missing, etc...
I vent a Weil-Mclain 68 Boiler (Model # P-468V-W) up one of the flues. This is an interior chimney (except the last 5') aboult 20' tall, and is lined with 8" clay liners, which visually seem in good shape. The boiler is fuel oil, and it runs at about 85% efficiency (when freshly cleaned anyway).
Weil-McLain rep says it doesn't much matter in their eyes if the chimney has a metal liner or not. I'm getting lots of advice from others to line it with Stainless steel anyway. As I understand it the problems with higher efficeincy units/low stack temps/caustic condensation, etc.... are mostly from gas boilers.
If I'm burning oil (ie higer temps) and the clay liners look OK, should I still pay to have a stainless liner installed as part of my chimney re-build? I don't want to scrimp at the cost of safety, but I have other repairs to spend that kind of $ on if it's reallly overkill.
Any thoughts appreciated!
I have a block and brick chimney built in the 50's that I need to have re-done (weathering over the years, mortal loose/missing, etc...
I vent a Weil-Mclain 68 Boiler (Model # P-468V-W) up one of the flues. This is an interior chimney (except the last 5') aboult 20' tall, and is lined with 8" clay liners, which visually seem in good shape. The boiler is fuel oil, and it runs at about 85% efficiency (when freshly cleaned anyway).
Weil-McLain rep says it doesn't much matter in their eyes if the chimney has a metal liner or not. I'm getting lots of advice from others to line it with Stainless steel anyway. As I understand it the problems with higher efficeincy units/low stack temps/caustic condensation, etc.... are mostly from gas boilers.
If I'm burning oil (ie higer temps) and the clay liners look OK, should I still pay to have a stainless liner installed as part of my chimney re-build? I don't want to scrimp at the cost of safety, but I have other repairs to spend that kind of $ on if it's reallly overkill.
Any thoughts appreciated!
0
Comments
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Liner?
I for one would spent the money somewhere else. Than boiler has about 450 degree flue gas going up the chimney.Just have the unit serviced and tested and all should be OK.I'm in Ma. and see unlined brick chimneys every day that are 100 yrs. old and oil fired boilers for the last 70+ yrs. in great shape. Hope this helps0 -
Thanks John,
Good to have some confirmation. I need a new roof too, so that $900 for the liner job will be put to good use.0 -
safety
if the brick and block mortar needs redoing because of deterioration, its the same mortar that the bricklayer used to install the liners. What guarantee do you have that the liner joints are in any better shape then the brick joints . the liner was stressed by heating and cooling cycles that the brick and block never experienced. Its your family's health & safety your playing CO roulette with.0 -
Well Earthfire...
Your point is a good one; and the main reason I came here for advice. Perhaps the best thing to do is reserve the decision until the mason starts to take down the above-roof chimney. I think once we can look at the liners, and the mortar between, and "stick our fingers in the wound" then we'll have a good sense which way to go.
I guess my basic question is IF the liners AND mortar joints between them are all in fine shape....
Is there any reason to line the chimney for this type boiler?0 -
You will probably find...
that the chimney is in great shape, being that it is interior.....
Just rebuild the top and use it... it will work fine.....
Floyd0 -
I wonder if ?
Sodium silicate added to mortar for above roof chimneys would make a longer lasting substance. Chimneys sure have a time staying togehter. If walls had that much deteriation, brick and block would be out the window! JTOL bigugh!0
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