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Radiant heat, and recessed lights (Chuck Shaw)
chuck shaw
Member Posts: 584
I have a customer, who is concerned about having recessed lights, in the first floor ceiling, with radiant heat being used for the 2nd floor. System is with extruded plates.
Design temp was 140*, but he just changed floors on me again, and I have to re-run the numbers for hard wood.
His question is, has anyone run into problems with this, he doesnt want to have the thermal reset trip off in the lights, (i guess that can only happen a few times). And have to replace them. Is there a type of recessed can that is rated to work with radiant heat?
thanks in advance
Chuck Shaw
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Design temp was 140*, but he just changed floors on me again, and I have to re-run the numbers for hard wood.
His question is, has anyone run into problems with this, he doesnt want to have the thermal reset trip off in the lights, (i guess that can only happen a few times). And have to replace them. Is there a type of recessed can that is rated to work with radiant heat?
thanks in advance
Chuck Shaw
<A HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=143&Step=30">To Learn More About This Contractor, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Contractor"</A>
0
Comments
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recessed lights
i would be more concerned that the heat from the lights will affect (melt) the tubing if they are too close together...the plates heat up from the lighting cans....maybe wrap the cans with 1/2" fiberglas as long as the light won't overheat0 -
Enclosed Cans
I completed a staple up job (no plates, 140 degree supply) for a client and he purchased recessed lights that were enclosed so the insulation could go right up to the fixture, Made it through last year without the lights shutting down once on him. I was curious about that situation thats why I recommended the enclosed unit and inquired during the winter to see if that situation was ok.
hope this helps some.
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Most of the can lights
I see installed these days are double walled. Sort of like a B-Vent design The electricians tell me these are approved for direct insulation installation. The bulb wattage has a lot to do with tripping the thermal reset I have found. Often times a homeowner will put in a large flood lamp that exceeds the units listing. I would think with a good insulation around the can you should not have a problem. Contact the manufacture for their temperature restrictions perhaps.
hot rod
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Recessed lights
I would use the type that are marked I.C. (insulated
ceiling). In this way you can pack some insulation around
the fixture to prevent the tubing and the fixture from
interfering with each other.
Regards, Mike L.0 -
Plates ??140*??
Can you walk on the floor? Al0 -
Trim options a factor
I agree with Hotrod that it is unlikely IC cans would be impacted by the heat from the tubing. Think about how hot an attic can get on a toasty summer day. The issue is more the reverse if the tubing and can are in close proximity. One of the situations where I've run into thermal trip is when an enclosed trim (like a trim unit with a lens above a bathtub) does not allow the bulbs heat to escape.
Dana0 -
carpet
he wanted to do a pretty thick carpet....I talked him out of it, and told him about all he would be loosing....now its hard wood, we will see what it is next week when his wife gets back from her mothers.
Chuck
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You can also
use compact fluorescent floodlight bulbs in those cans- that would solve the overheating worries and save a lot of energy to boot. Phillips makes some nice ones- we used them at my sister's house when we built a room in their basement. They work real well. Most electrical suppliers should carry them these days, and the Orange Box does too.
The only thing you can't do with this type of floodlight bulb is use it with a dimmer. We got around this by installing a couple more switches than usual so the cans can be turned on two at a time.
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