Radiant and Engineered Wood Flooring Pete M

Pete Millar (PM)

We are looking for feedback on experiences w/Engineered Wood (as opposed to solid wood) flooring and radiant heat, in particular regarding:

1) Checking and shrinkage control
2) Recommended operating temp, is 100 to 110 F into the floor OK?
3) Are wider planks (5") O.K. or are they too prone to warping?
4) Recommended installation configuration, fasteners, edge glue or not, etc.
5) Is it possible to do a "floating" installation, and how?

We are trying to sort out these issues and are getting no where pretty fast. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks!

Doug Wagoner

Robbins wood flooring and radiant

floor heat has gone through three winters at my home. There is no sign of warping, shrinking, splintering, checking or anything else bad. It looks like it has just been laid . The master bed room is a glue down to a 2" thin, fiber re-inforced concrete (NOT GYPCRETE) pour to encase the pex tubing (be sure the concrete is flat level. In the sun room the pex was stapled to the bottom of 3/4" sub flooring before the Robbins Hardwood was stapled to the top. Both have worked beautifully. My wife wanted no part of a cold tile bath room floor. I had to put my life up as warrenty that the floor would be warm all winter. It stays toasty to the toes even on the coldest of nights. The water temp for the staple up is at 115* max., while water for the concrete encased barely runs 100*. I plan to staple up the rest of the down stairs as I have time.