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Phillips screw/hexbolt on aquastats

BillW@honeywell
BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
The recommended torque is 20 inch-pounds. Anything more just distorts the clamping mechanism & destroys the control. Just for curiosity's sake, how many guys have and use torque wrenches or screwdrivers?

Comments

  • Huh?

    Just where does it say that? It's probably in the instructions that we throw out with the cardboard box and heat conductive paste.

    :>)

    Thanks for letting us know; that's good information.

    All the best,

    Alan



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  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    Torque

    Hi, Alan! It doesn't say that anywhere (yet), and it wasn't a problem until the hexhead bolt was changed to a phillips head screw. We are now changing back to the hexhead bolt, due to customer feedback, and we are recommending that the bolt be torqued to 20 inch-pounds. I am asking for this to be included in the new installation instructions and on a warning sticker on the control.
  • Steve Levine
    Steve Levine Member Posts: 106


    Bill,
    Aren't some of the details that you have to attend to incredible!

    Steve Levine Slant/Fin
  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    details

    Yeah,Steve, they are. But I want to know what's bugging the guys in the field, so it can be fixed, if possible. Take care.
  • Pat
    Pat Member Posts: 25
    torque wrenches or screwdrivers

    Used them when the application called for a specific inch-pounds torque. Not something my techs or I carried in the field. I have them in my shop. Aquastat has been around for years and now we all have to carry a torque wrench or screwdriver to install them. Good Luck!
  • John@Reliable
    John@Reliable Member Posts: 379


    Torque to 20lb's ? I've been in field for 10 yrs and never had any trouble until it was changed from hexhead. Now was it changed for the homeowner who doesn't have a 5/16 nut driver unlike the techs. out thier? Also save some money by leaving out that " heat conductive paste" and use money saved to check solder before I get it please.PS come up with a paste that is not a glue which would also be nice.
  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    hexhead bolt

    I've posted this here before, but here it is again. The Hexbolt was not replaced to cut costs or to cater to homeowners. We were getting back a much higher than normal number of these controls, and when they were examined, it was found that most of them were damaged by excessive tightening of the bolt, so a phillips screw was substituted so that it couldn't be so easily overtightened. Feedback from the field was negative, so the hexbolt is back in the control, but any that come back for warranty will be examined for excessive tightening, and if that's found, the warranty will not be honored. The value we recommend is 20 inch pounds. You mentioned a solder problem? What kind of problem are you having?
  • John@Reliable
    John@Reliable Member Posts: 379


    Have had alot of RA117 stack relays with loose solder after about 18 months also afew 8124 & 8148 all with about same amount of service time.Makes for unhappy customers but aleast I can say wasn't our fault? Thanks
  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    Loose solder

    Were those stack relays subject to excessive vibration? I'm also curious as to why you are still using them, when newer, faster acting controls are available. What solder is failing on the stack relays, and also on the aquastats? I haven't had any problems reported with either of these controls about that...can you get me date codes, and are the controls still around, if so I'd like to send them for testing. Email me for the address to send them to.
  • well maybe.....

    we could use them t-handle nut drivers that slip at a pre-set torque (used years ago for ferncoe) but i cannot remember what the tourque was. i will try to find out??
  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    Loose solder

    Sorry, John, but I forgot to ask if the RA117's were factory controls or rebuilts.
  • John@Reliable
    John@Reliable Member Posts: 379


    They were new factory controls can't use rebuilt electric controls here in ma.
  • John@Reliable
    John@Reliable Member Posts: 379


    Excessive vibration? I don't think so due to old olds are 25 + yrs old. Why still using? night calls have 5 more calls and it's 9pm don't have time to rewire them.Part that fails? mostly solder on relay meets board, having no value and out of warrenty they get throw out. I'm in a area that still has alot of old systems in service, I still see 5 to 10 "snowman" boilers monthly.
  • Mark Eatherton1
    Mark Eatherton1 Member Posts: 2,542
    5 foot pounds...

    is what the no-hub coulping manufacturers specs are. I remember telling an inspector once that I had torqued them to 60 inch pounds. He about had a cow!! "You strip the chrome right off of them and cause them to fail!!" ....Oh, never mind...

    Amazing how some things that you don't use on a regular basis come back to an aging memory.

    ME


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  • BillW@honeywell
    BillW@honeywell Member Posts: 1,099
    RA117

    I see your point. There are lots of elderly systems here in the Northeast. When your service guys are out doing PM's & cleanouts, why not offer the homeowner the option to upgrade to a cad cell relay like the R7184, or even a new burner, if the old boiler has any life left? RA117's are hard to kill...any control that lasts 25 years has done it's job, and deserves to go to the scrapheap with full honors. Have a good weekend.
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