2 piece condensate tank

SHMA

Hoping somebody out there versed in steam systems can ID this 2 piece condensate tank. I believe it to be a Frankensystem where a Hoffman pump was grafted onto this tank and I am looking for float and seal. So far coming up blank on the Google - Thanks in advance!

Buck Jr courthouse condensate 2.jpeg

pumpcontrolguy

I feel like I remember seeing one just like that around 4-5 years ago and IDing what it was. The wheels are currently turning in my brain, lets see if they can dig those memories…

pumpcontrolguy

Ah nevermind, found the one I was thinking of. Similar, but different. That one was a Skimore PC6N. Small 6 gallon simplex with a split tank design. https://skidmorepump.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/Protector-Series-Brochure-2023.pdf

As far as the float goes, that's probably just going to be a Square D 9037HG##, with the ##'s being whatever float config fits in there, probably a 9037HG33 or 9037HG37

Any sort of markings on the pump itself and or do you have a photo where we can see the actual pump shape?

Also the flange stud dimensions are quite important here too. check this link for common stud patterns https://www.sterlcosteam.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/TS-Sterlco-Adapter-Kits.pdf

SHMA

I do, the pump is a B&G/Hoffman, attached. That's why I am thinking Frankensystem… I also have a closeup of the seal kind of a tophat design. Doesn't use the standard 2" fitting. I agree it is similar to the Skidmore PC6N I will check with that rep on their float switch maybe I can get a better pic.

Buck jr courthouse condensate 1.jpeg

Buck Jr courthouse condensate 4.jpeg

Pumpguy

That pivot seal is a 3/16" quad ring, Square D, now Telemecanique, part # 9998 PC-338. These are offered in both Buna and Viton elastomers. The 9998 PC338 is the high temperature Viton version which is the one you want.

To service this, you first need to remove the condensate pump, then reach inside the tank and remove the float.

The brass housing has 1/2" male pipe threads, so after removing the float, you can unscrew the pivot housing.

Judging by the condition of this float switch, I would recommend replacing the whole thing.

The float arm on these switches come in various offsets; 45* as well as 3, 4.5, 5, and 7", either right or left configured. Measure yours to get an exact replacement.

See attached service bulletin for this switch.

Supplyhouse.com offers a good selection of these switches.

When ordering, be sure you specify FORM Z 20. That will get you the Viton quad ring. I don't know why they even offer the non-Z20 form, the Buna quad ring. I don't know of any applications where the non-Z20 Buna quad ring is superior to the FORM Z20 Viton quad ring.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

SQ D 9037 Hg fl sw 08112021.pdf

SHMA

Thanks for the help on this one!

Shawn

pumpcontrolguy

Good advice from @Pumpguy. Because the switches are cheap and our labor expensive, we usually just replace the entire switch assy no matter what for our customers (we only do commercial). But for some people it's definitely worth it to just replace the switch seals especially if you catch a leak early before everything corrodes. Also, if you do still have the top cover of the float switch and the label is still inside, it will specify what the model is as well. Photo attached for reference

SHMA

Thanks again, checking with them now

Shawn