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Honeywell V8043 Zone Valve replacement

Options
billyboy01
billyboy01 Member Posts: 2

System is 21 years old and am replacing most components and the NTI condensing boiler. Boiler crapped out which is what instigated the project. It was recommended to me to replace all 3 zone valves. These are my options:

  1. just replace the powerheads,
  2. replace powerheads and ball valves, but keep existing housings,
  3. replace entire housing and powerheads.

The brass housing looks fine to me and it would be way easier just to replace the guts. They all worked fine last heating season. Thanks in advance

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,825

    If they worked fine last winter, I would just keep some parts on hand. 23 years no one has a crystal ball to predict how long they will last.

    If they are not leaking, you could take them apart and clean and inspect. If everything is ok continue on with spare parts on hand.

    Big Ed_4
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,657

    When I replace a boiler, I do the entire boiler room. Reusing old components—such as thermostats, zone valves, the automatic feed valve, or the expansion tank—can lead to an unwinnable argument if one of those parts fails within the first few years after the boiler replacement.

    The customer has a valid point when asking:

    “I just paid you more than five figures for a new heating system, and now you want to charge me another hundred-something dollars for a thermostat? What kind of outfit are you running here?”

    Based on my past experience, I include anything that is likely to fail so it is covered under the applicable warranty, whether that warranty is for one year, five years, or longer. Sometimes the warranty covers labor, and sometimes it does not.

    I make sure the customer has a copy of the warranty included with the contract, as well as any warranty provided by the manufacturer. That way, if I ever need to charge for a non-warranty repair, the terms are clear. Most of the time, however, I can cover the repair, and the issue never becomes a problem.

    Sometimes the technician even receives an extra tip as a result of the “free repair,” and that is always good for morale.

    I wonder it those zone valves were left over from the boiler previous to the NTI. Include the valves in the price of the replacement.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,346

    I think Ed and Ed have to different points of view. @billyboy01 are you a contractor or the homeowner ?

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • billyboy01
    billyboy01 Member Posts: 2

    Thanks for the input, I am replacing all of the components including circulation pump, zone valves, ET, air scoop, etc. Everything was new in 2015, but since boiler is being replaced, I am upgrading everything as we go to FL in the winter to escape WNY winters and don't want any breakdowns when not there. I am homeowner who is an experienced carpenter with some plumbing experience. I will likely use the old brass housings and replace the valves and powerheads with new as long as each housing is in good shape. Unless someone has a compelling reason for me to replace the housings too.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,075

    Go with a delta P type circulator with zone valves, and microbubble air purger

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    EdTheHeaterManBig Ed_4