Oil boiler replacement Hudson NY / Columbia County NY / Hudson Valley
Hi folks,
Looking to replace our old Peerless WBV-03-110-WPCTL oil boiler and add an indirect tank (likely stainless? we have softened water).
Any pros in this area? Hudson NY / Columbia county?
I've tried the Find a Contractor link and unfortunately there are is no one in our region listed. It's a big purchase for us and we want to ensure its done cleanly and correctly.
Thanks!
Comments
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Don't know about contractor in your area. Upstate NY can be like the wild wild west.
There are some on this forum that are contractors outside your area that will consult in remote locations. You hire a local competent company to do the work and the consultant works with them.
Can you post pictures of what you have? How is the company that does your service?
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Find a supply house in your area that sells hydronic equipment and ask them for a list of referrals.
I called the Hudson and New Richmond Chambers of Commerce and they drew blanks for wholesalers. I would try the Stillwater, MN chamber next.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
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I’m sure the Better Business Bureau has a list of contractors who have received customer complaints. That might help you steer clear of a problem. Also, member companies often register with the BBB in their area so they can advertise their membership affiliation.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Hi Bright Black. We consult in your area and are known to do installations all up and down the Hudson Valley. We have family around Rhinebeck.
If you scroll down on the list you'll find us. Thank you. Mad Dog
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@EBEBRATT-Ed Posting some pics here of our system over the last year or so. No good images from today, but you get a sense. I do like our oil supplier, and they've offered me a good price on a direct replacement but they also blew up our oil furnace in the garage last year so I'm a bit apprehensive. I also would really like to have someone give me a recommendation on an improvement to help with our efficiency and possibly reevaluate our btus. I also want someone to acknowledge that we have softened water and make a recommendation on an indirect tank without me asking. A considered process, if you will. Re: the pics, I didn't put that orange spray foam in the stacked stone, (caught a chimney sweep in the act before they did more). Working on getting it removed.
@Mad Dog_2 Matt, Thanks for the rec. I saw you on the list but presumed we were too far. I'll give you a call this week.
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softened water is bad for the system water but i don't think it will have a problem with the stainless tank because the chloride stays with the minerals removed from the water when the resin is regenerated.
what yo do need to be careful of is chlorides in the source water, if a lot of road salt runoff ends up in the water source you may have too high a chloride content for the tank.
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Advanced Radiant Design, Kingston NY?
https://www.advancedradiantdesigns.com/meet-the-teamBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
One of my concerns is the oil tank to boiler distance.
Most oil codes you need 5' between the tank and the boiler. That's why i call upstate NY the WW west. I did some work up there…not much
I think MA was 8' at one time.
looks pretty good for 23 years old.
What is you reason for replacement? Having problems? Age? That boiler could easily run another 10-15 years.
An indirect will give you more hot water, but boiler efficiency has not changed much.
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Agree with @EBEBRATT-Ed on this one. you will save on fuel with an indirect but make sure the boiler control is set up for a cold start boiler system. That is where you will save after the tankless coil is abandoned. and you will be able to keep the indirect in 20 years when the boiler must be replaced.
The control that makes your boiler "Know" to make hot water is most likely a L8124 triple aquastat relay. Here is the information you need ot keep that control and make that existing boiler making only heat as needed for the rooms or the indirect tank.
If you look at the two control diagrams, I prefer the one on the right for a baseboard heating system. The one on the left is for cast-iron radiator systems, where you may want some protection from flue-gas condensation. If you have baseboard hot-water radiation, you should be fine with the diagram on the right.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@EBEBRATT-Ed Thanks for this info.
The relief valve had a very moderate drip when we first moved in, we had our plumber (who is excellent and one of the few contractors here we fully trust) check everything out and get the system up and running — they replaced the pressure relief valve and expansion tank. The drip continued (mildly) — they went through a lot of trouble shooting and believe that there is a pinhole leak in the coil. We let it go for a bit because the dripping wasn't severe — now that we are in summer and the boiler barely gets any use it is now dripping constantly. My understanding is that replacing the coil can be problematic and can potentially fail if there is a seized bolt or corrosion on the mating surface. I guess in the interest of saving us money, they expressed that they could go through this process of replacement but we could end up wasting money on their labor to do so (and ruining the boiler) so it may be best to look into replacement.
The indirect idea was something they proposed to also save us money in the long run. We have looked into other heating options, but we have a brand new oil tank (not pictured) so we'd like to continue to use it.
@EdTheHeaterMan Thank you for this info, this is super helpful.
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the coil can be replaced by someone that knows what they are doing. cleaning a corroded surface or removing a broken bolt are both pretty simple mechanical tasks. you could also replace it with an indirect and plug it or replace it with a blank plate. you can't plug it if it isn't leaking but if it actually is you can.
the test to see if the tankless coil is leaking is to turn off the cold water supply to the tankless and adjust the boiler pressure down to normal operating pressure and see if it creeps up again. probably leave it a bit above what the pressure reducing valve is set to so it doesn't get a feed from that if the prv is good. the other possibility is that the prv isn't holding.
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Most enforce 5' to the burner, despite the fact the fire is in the boiler's chamber, and if an oil soaked boiler, could run up the flue pipe into the chimney base.
Wouldn't be too hard to run some metal studs, drywall, tape to make a fire rated wing wall.1 -
Agree I just saw the tank and the 5' jumped into my head.
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