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HTP Superstor SSU-45CB piping on EK-1 Standard

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mbrackliffe
mbrackliffe Member Posts: 10

Hello all,

I have an EK-1 standard rear clean-out with heat exchanger that needs a new hot water tank.

I have a brand new HTP superstor SSU-45CB tank (no indirect coil) that my folks didn't end up using when they switched over to whole house heat pump setup.

Question is how best to plumb it since EK's diagram is pretty much opposite of HTP's diagram. EK wants a cold draw off the bottom and a dip tube into the top for hot return. The HTP only has side ports at bottom and maybe 1.5 feet up and shows hot return on bottom of tank.

My thought is to pipe the hot return into the top side port on the HTP to maintain a little stratification and or maybe add a dip tube into the top port but I'm not sure if a horizontal dip tube would be beneficial.

Thoughts on piping this tank? Thanks!

image.png image.png

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,825

    EK always follows this forum. hangout for a day or two and you should have your answer straight from EK

    mattmia2
  • Robertw
    Robertw Member Posts: 92

    Hello gentlemen, For the record I sent a Pm to the poster with a drawing i quickly scratched out in between classes I was teaching today. I believe we have handled this for him.

    Robert W.

    Energy Kinetics

    HVACNUT
  • Robertw
    Robertw Member Posts: 92

    Here is a better version of the drawing.

    Robert W.

    Energy Kinetics

    mattmia2GGross
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,825

    @Robertw

    I am sure the op was happy that you responded.

  • mbrackliffe
    mbrackliffe Member Posts: 10

    Thanks for the responses. Per RobertW's PM I should plug the top side port and T into the top most port for hot return from the heat exchanger and feed to the house with a mixing valve. Cold feed to remain off bottom tank port.

    The drawing posted shows differently though with a horizontal dip tube in a side port but much higher in the tank than the HTP side port that I have which is maybe 20 inches off the bottom of the tank. The hot water feed to the house is shown separate which aligns with the current tank top port.

    not clear which to follow?

  • Robertw
    Robertw Member Posts: 92

    The Ek drawing i posted here would be the ideal way of piping. The drawing not shown has the output line of the plate exchanger tied into the hot out-line at the tank. It is recommended to install a tempering valve either way on the hot water line to protect from scalding.

    Robert W.

    Energy Kinetics

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,075
    Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 10.39.43 AM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 10.41.01 AM.png

    That is sometimes referred to as a sparge tube.

    If it is worth the effort you can drill into a 3/4 copper to male adapter and add a tube to go into the tank. Cap the end and drill a series of 1/4" holes to divert flow to the top of the tank.

    I think this is part of the post purge function to load that extra "purge into the top of the tank.

    Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 11.00.35 AM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 11.00.45 AM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 11.00.30 AM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 10.56.34 AM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mbrackliffe
    mbrackliffe Member Posts: 10

    The picture hot rod posted shows the connections I have B/C/D. Port B will be cold out to heat exchanger and drain.

    Per Rob's message he suggested plugging port C.

    Port D would then be the heat exchanger return and domestic hot supply. I will be using a mixing valve to keep tank temperature higher. So should I install a dip tube in port D and T everything off this port?

    Would it make sense to put the dip tube in port C with holes facing up given it is only 14.5 inches up the tank? Then use D for the domestic feed? Seems like C may be too low in the tank.

    I plan to give Rob a call over the next few days but figured I would post these questions anyways for future reference for others.

    image.png
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,075

    I don’t think the dip tube, dhw supply and T&P could all go into port D?

    Also when you put a T&P into a tee,,use the model with the 8” sensor. The sensor needs to reach into the tank

    Tanks that ship with tee come with the long stem T&Ps

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Larry Weingarten
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,902

    keep in mind that most hpt tanks have a little curved scoop shaped pipe on the top outlet to help them pull hot water off the top of the tank, noting is going very far in that tapping.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,075

    I suspect that HTP tank has the two connections close to one another, B & C, as it is the same tank that would have a coil inside for the indirect version. So not ideal placement for your application.

    Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 10.39.43 AM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,825

    I have drilled out compression connectors so copper tubing will slide through them to make a dip tube. Used them on top of oil tanks to get the suction line to the bottom.

    never tried it with a sweat fitting though.

    And no, don't tell me about compression fittings on oil. The duplex tank bushings you by for oil tanks come with compression fittings for that use. I just didn't have any on that job.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 28,075

    You can find sparge tubes from the manufacturers that make dip tubes. Camco and Apcom, for example.

    I have not found a non ferrous double tapped bushing or duplex ? I suppose easy enough to build one from a bronze bushing.

    Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 9.23.54 PM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 9.24.04 PM.png Screenshot 2026-07-15 at 9.25.28 PM.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream