Carlin 60200FR

Jalen_Jalen2006

Carlin 601 Gas, intermittent flame failure initially replaced igniter due to primary control noting current was low. I couldn’t get any current readings when I did the Carlin testing for ignitor, it passed the resistance test Igniter(41000). Unit has since gone down again, so I took apart gas gun adjusted my electrodes/ cleaned off flame rod. Cleaned entire assembly and checked electrical connections. The fault I have seen though is lockout, “igniter powered” and I look in the manual it says this: “relay miswired or welded” at that point I’m assuming you have to replace the control. Please advise any suggestions of more to check. When you reset the burner it never faults again while you’re there but once you’re gone it faults right out and there you go. I’ve shut it off and fired it like 6-8 times and it takes off.

EdTheHeaterMan

I believe that is the AI technology that looks to see if there is anybody in the room before locking out for no reason.

EdTheHeaterMan

Seriously,  there should be a way to look at the last 50 faults.  Since you have had this lockout more than once, can you scroll thru the previous faults?   Are they all the same (Ignition)?  Are there any other messages in the list?

Jalen_Jalen2006

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1886754#Comment_1886754

they’re all ignition faults, it all says the same thing.

GW

those are painful times

Are you able to check your draft?

EBEBRATT-Ed

I can say it has nothing to do with AI. I started in 73 and all burners run fine when your there and lockout before you get out of the parking lot. It happened back then and AI wasn't invented yet.

@Jalen_Jalen2006

Make sure you voltage is up to snuff.

Ignition transformers and flame signal all relate to voltage which everything is rated for 120 volts now. If you get below 108ish you sure to have issues. Just something to check

EdTheHeaterMan

@EBEBRATT-Ed That was the beginning of AI in 1973. Didn't you read George Orwell's 1984 back then? Those gremlins were turning off the burners at the behest of Big Brother! as the date was getting closer and closer.

Back to the “IGNITOR POWERED” fault code on the Carlin 602000FR.

This fault indicates that the ignitor is receiving power at a time when it should not be energized. It does not mean that the ignitor itself is defective.

Carefully inspect all wiring connections to the control and to the associated components. Look closely for stray strands of stranded wire that may be touching or very close to other terminals or conductors, such as the motor lead.

The motor circuit is powered during pre-purge and post-purge, while other components—such as the ignitor, stage 1 valve, and stage 2 valve—should remain de-energized. A single stray wire strand or unintended contact can backfeed voltage to the ignitor circuit, causing the control to detect power when it should not be present and generate this fault.

Jalen_Jalen2006

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1886813#Comment_1886813

makes a ton of sense

Jalen_Jalen2006

How can I fix that though, besides checking wiring is up to par and no unnecessary resistance other than that I don’t know

EdTheHeaterMan

The "Miswired" indicates that the Blue lead on that control is getting power from somewhere when it should not have power. Now it has been a long time since I have worked on a Carlin 601 burner and that was an oil burner but that chassis is the same and there is a way to pinch wires easily when closing the covers without noticing. Look closely at all the wires that are under the ignition transformer and where they travel through the burner to the junction box under the 60200FR Primary Control. A piece of wire insulation can get crushed if it is caught in between a box and the cover. I have done it myself on occasion and it is difficult to see crushed insulation after you have opened the box cover to inspect and put the cover back on without crushing the wires.

The only way to find which one it is, is to watch the burner go through the normal cycle and listen for the spark and make sure you don't heat the spark when you should not hear it and you do heat the spark when you should. I have actually seen some service technicians install test light bulbs that indicate when power is applied to the valve, motor and ignitor. And also added light bulbs to the limit switches to light when that switch opens (Turns off) as a result of a fault like blocked vent (BV) or carbon monoxide (CO) if the boiler room is too loud to hear the spark or the valve opening clicks.

The indication that the "contacts are welded" tells me that this would be fixed by replacing the 60200FR control.

If you are going to swap out the control you need to go through the menu and write down all the different parameters before you remove the old control. including Pre Purge, TFI, Post Purge, Post Purge Interrupt, Allowed Recycles, and TT Used. Make sure you use the same settings on the new control, AND DO NOT RESET BASELINE OR FACTORY DEFAULT before you write everything down. It would be better to just select NO for those last two.

Hope this helps.