Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Conversion burner

Options

I was looking at upgrading my boiler heat source. Was wondering if this would fit into due to how mine is made. Gonna have professional install it and want to make sure before that its possible before I call.

Screenshot_20260115_084929_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20260115_085302_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20260115_085251_Gallery.jpg

My biggest concern is that the current on goes and makes a 90 degree turn. Also the entrance is square and just the bottom door removed from the boiler. Before any say more pics just tell what pics you are needing and I can take them to make sure I have all the correct ones

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,315
    edited January 15

    That's a very good burner. But there's more to it than just buying the burner and mounting it.

    The manual is here:

    https://carlincombustion.com/wp-content/uploads/MNEZGas-091319.pdf

    You might have to have a steel plate fabricated to mount the burner on, depending on what's left when the old burner comes out.

    The Carlin site says this burner doesn't need a traditional firebox. But I would line the floor and the lower portions of the firebox (below the projections where the coal grates were mounted), as well as the mounting plate, with Kaowool refractory, to keep heat from radiating down into the floor.

    And keep in mind, there's no way this setup would be as efficient as a newer boiler.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    clammymattmia2
  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    Would the burner need to replace the middle door cause with the old burner its below the spot needs heated. Right now im no where close on a new boiler and honestly the cost verse my gas bill wouldn't pay off till im dead due to more then likely the old piping would need removed because of it size and im not sure if the current radiator would work with a new system.

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 289

    No. Just no.
    First of all, that's not what a contractor is going to charge you to install and commission the burner, if that would even work. It would at least be double that.
    Why not replace the boiler with a modern/properly sized boiler? The money you would've spent on that conversion (if it's even possible) could be put toward the new boiler. Any good company could also help you finance it.
    Most likely there would need to be very little piping change. But why not get an estimate first.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    What boiler would you suggest. I dont know anywhere to start. In my area it might not be alot places to install it. I'd like to order before hand if I did then.play to have it installed. I know alot people will say just let who installs it to look but id like to atleast have idea of what I should get And which one to stay away from

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    you would need someone that knows how to do it to convert it to a power burner and you should let them pick the burner. it may be much more efficient through the fire door rather than the ash pit door. you need an expert to do this and have it be reasonably efficent.

    A new boiler can be installed on to the current system. That also requires some expertise but it is a bit less specialized than installing conversion burners.

    For either job you need to find someone that knows what they are doing and that person may or may not be in your area.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    that is a gravity hot water system? a mod con boiler with a circulator or a conventional cast iron boiler with return water temp protection could heat that system. the mod con might be able to run outdoor reset and work really well on that system.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    I have a friend that installs them and has retired so he might be my only options at this time. I could see what he suggest on whole replacement.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    how much does this system get used? if you are in a climate that doesn't have lot of cold time doing nothing might be most cost effective.

  • bburd
    bburd Member Posts: 1,271

    The big problem is that the existing boiler, while sturdy and well-made, is about 100 years old. It may last another 20, or the heat exchanger may crack and fail tomorrow. Changing just the burner is not worth the investment. If money is tight, I would run that until it fails.

    You would not need to change your existing radiators or most of the piping if you get a new boiler— just the piping near the boiler itself. Most of the system could remain as it is now.

    What is the condition of the chimney? If that also needs work a new boiler that can vent out the side of the house might be your best overall solution.


    Bburd
  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    Yeah I have a few month of extreme cold but during that I also have some natural gas fireplaces I use on top that if its real cold. Thats kinda why I dont want to go into 2 deep cause if its just 50 a month and im paying 100 for boiler that doesn't make sense. At this point I haven't had bill with only the boiler since I rehooked it up. Before I was heating only the 2 fireplaces. So it might be higher and I might have switch back except during extremely cold days

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    someone that knows what they are doing could possibly adjust that burner to make it more efficient and possibly add some baffles to the passages in the boiler to slow the products of combustion down. Whereas much of the combustion of a modern atmospheric boiler is set by the design of the boiler, with a conversion burner much of it has to be controlled by the tech.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    Now I do have control valve/shut off valve that someone suggest to turn it down alot to limit the flow of gas due to most going to chimmy that would help on the amount im using.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982
    edited January 15

    it might make you use a whole lot more depending on if that makes it transfer to the water more poorly by either being cooler or not contacting the sides of the boiler as well. Setting the firing rate should be done by someone that understands combustion and has the right instrumentation.

    bburd
  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 1,283

    I doubt you would get any tech help from Carlin if the installation fails. Most manufacturers of conversion burners test their burners on multiple boilers to ensure that they function as designed. i would doubt that style boiler has been tested by Carlin although that is only an opinion. Boilers are engineered systems. you don't just throw parts together. Also looks like a very narrow combustion chamber. you would have to install a combustion chamber liner. Too many what if's.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    Yeah I kinda thought that awesome with turning it down. I think there logic was that any heat that was stored would go up the chimmy so lowering it would save from sending wasted hear out

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,305

    We did this already, a few months ago. You would need a custom front plate made for a burner upgrade.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,881

    That boiler could easily be converted to run with a Carlin or Beckett gas burner.

    I just question if the cost is worthwhile with a boiler of that age.

    IMHO if what you have runs get a boiler quote from a contractor and start saving for the replacement.

    You could have asbestos to remove.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    if you are heating the same area with the fireplaces the cost should be within the same realm, it may be say a 50% difference but it shouldn't be 300% if the fireplaces are truly doing an adequate job of heating the space. Make sure that the boiler is not set up as warm start, that it only fires if there is a call from the thermostat, that there isn't a secondary aquastat that keeps it at a minimum temp. I see an aquastat on the outlet, make sure that is set up to only act as a high limit.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42
    Screenshot_20260117_211356_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20260117_211356_Gallery.jpg

    Here's my meter about 25 days apart during the coldest days we had all years. Couple of single digits days. Does that usage look normal or is it a crazy amount

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982

    i think you posted the same picture twice

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 289

    Looks like the same pic twice.

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42
    Screenshot_20260117_211403_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20260117_211356_Gallery.jpg

    Sorry here's a new one

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,982
    edited January 18

    252-064=18,800 ft^3

    in michigan that would be about $250

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42
    Screenshot_20260118_105130_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20260118_105106_Samsung Internet.jpg Screenshot_20260118_105048_Samsung Internet.jpg

    Here my last year reading with just the fire places I haven't got a full cold month bill with current system

  • Benjikittens
    Benjikittens Member Posts: 42

    Here my new bill with the boiler

    Screenshot_20260123_010300_Samsung Internet.jpg