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Help gas usage for single-unit one-pipe steam heating

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Hello! This is our first winter in a second-story unit in Massachusetts with one-pipe steam heating, and we are facing some rather eye-popping gas bills. I'd really love some help figuring out some DIY steps to reduce our costs.

Here's what we've done already: we've had the energy company check for gas leaks and the management company has checked for commingling and replaced some old radiator valves. We keep the heat low (at or below 68 when we're home, 60-62 at night and when we're away), used 3M insulation on the windows, and use a space heater in the living room. We just switched to a programmable T5 Honeywell thermostat so we can drop the temp at night and when we're gone. Still, we've used about 9 therms per day over the last three days for a 1,000 sqft apartment.

Some quick building context: according to the energy company, our gas usage is on track with the prior tenants' over the past several years. However, our downstairs neighbors have historically used ~6 times less gas in the coldest months. There's no attic or gabled roof above us, so we probably have much worse heat retention, so that could be contributing to costs. But I'm really hoping that we can drop our usage.

My only thought at this point is to go downstairs and insulate the pipes in our basement; it's 20 F outside right now and the basement is 70 F, so I'm guessing we're dumping a fair amount of heat there. Beyond that, I'm running out of ideas.

I've attached some photos of our boiler and our pipes in the basement. I've also attached a photo of one of our radiators.

My questions for you:

  • How should I be setting the variable valves on our radiators? Will this have an outsize effect on our gas usage?
  • Is there anything in the photos of our boiler or pipes that seems like an obvious place for improvement? Is insulation a good first step?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,513

    The different vent rates are used to balance the system. If the radiators all heat quickly and the house heats evenly tinkering with the vents won't save any fuel.

    Adding attic insulation if it is lacking would be the biggest reduction. It looks like the piping is mostly insulated already. If unconditioned space is above you, loss through the ceiling will be most of the heat loss for the space so the top apartment has a lot more heat loss than the bottom or middle apartments.

    The presuretrol could possibly be turned down a bit but that isn't going to make a huge difference. Make sure the pigtail to the presuretrol is clear so that it actually is running at the pressure it is set to.

    Someone should flood the boiler and make sure it isn't leaking above the water line. If there is a crack in the hx above the water line steam will go up the chimney. If the boiler is filled with water and there is a crack above the water line, water will start leaking out the crack and drip somewhere underneath the boiler.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,493
    edited December 8

    900,000 btu/24 hours= 37,500 btu/hour. That doesn't seem excessive. Gas prices are way up in MA from what I hear. The Governor stopped two pipe lines that were supposed to come into the State. Don't know if that has had any effect but a lot of people in MA are complaining about NG prices.

    Here is a test you can do.

    Catch the boiler on a cold start. See how long it takes from a cold start to

    See how long it take for the supply pipe from the boiler to get hot where you can't hold your hand on it

    See how long it takes for the steam to get to the end of the longest steam main where you can't hold your hand on the end of the main.

    See how long it takes for the radiators to get up to temp.

    This will give us a clue as to how good or bad the venting is.

  • bburd
    bburd Member Posts: 1,242

    Insulating the steam piping above the boiler, along with any other bare steam mains and radiator runouts, will certainly help. 1 inch fiberglass is usually recommended and can be purchased online for less than what you can probably get it for locally. It is sized based on the pipe size.

    There is no need to insulate the steam main extensions after the last radiator runouts, which only carry condensate back to the boiler.

    Do the radiators heat evenly and start heating at about the same time? Insufficient or missing steam main venting can interfere with this and raise fuel bills.


    Bburd
  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 866

    What is on the system for main vents. How long are the mains and what size pioe? Do your timing test of steam from header to end of mains ar a start of cycle when the pipes are still warm, not cold.