Most reliable wallhung?
I'm looking for whatever the most reliable NG wallhung boiler is?
Looking for something in the 60-90K range to heat a small shop.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
Comments
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Maybe IBC? With any of the brands I would suggest avoiding the budget models with a "tankless water heater" style heat exchanger IBC calls that one the SFB.
Most of the firetube style residential boilers have heat exchangers made by AIC, and have very similar internal parts. The brands mentioned above have a good track record of honoring any warranty issues. My usual suggestion for brands would include to buy one from a source you are comfortable with. Ideally someone has parts and knowledge nearby.
I put a Viessmann B1HE-85 in my house. I know the boilers and stock parts myself so its a no brainer for me.
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I have a feeling when it comes to warranty I'll be up a creek, but I'd still like to know parts are easily available etc.
So, something like this bad boy would be a good bet?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Look at what you want to do with it too. Some Lochinvar and Viessman models especially have built in controls for multiple zones with multiple setpoints and things like that. If you just need a similar boiler HTP's now discontinued UFT line was inexpensive and lacked some of the controls fancier models have but was a reliable boiler for a simple installation. Also look at turndown ratio and what your needs for turndown are. Many boilers are 10:1 now which may or may not be important depending on what zoning you are doing and what sort of load you have on a mild day vs design day.
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Turndown I suspect is important, because I'm attempting to size this to deal with doors being open sometimes during the winter.
Also trying to figure out sizing on Modine HSB series "unit heaters".
Looks like to get them to put out something decent with cool enough water to justify a modcon, I need to grossly oversize them, like a 86,000 btu/h unit to get 30,000 +- out.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Yeah, hydroair really wants high temp water. You could also look at a few large panel radiators or convector cabinets to get the output you need at low water temps.
Also think about what sort of recovery time you need and how often those will run. If you are only running them 10% of the time maybe it doesn't make sense to spend $5k extra on emitters to make it 10% more efficient during that time. This is also where the multiple calls with different setpoints and reset curves could come in.
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What is up with that heat exchanger on the SFC? It has two separate water circuits caste into the aluminum?
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"This Combi boiler has an independent piping circuit for efficiently generating
Domestic Hot Water. When a faucet is opened to draw hot water, water flow is
detected with a flow sensor and the unit fires up to begin generating domestic hot
water. Due to the unique design of the unit’s heat exchanger, the unit can fire with
either no water in the space heating circuit or without flow of water if pressurized
with the domestic heating system water.
The heat exchanger has two separate copper water passageways encased in the
aluminum heat transfer block. Each copper passageway is completely isolated
from the other to eliminate cross contamination in the event of a leak. This heat
exchanger complies with the double wall heat exchanger requirements in many
regional jurisdictions.
The unique design of the cast aluminum heat exchanger acts as a heat buffer,
eliminating the cold sandwich effect when turning on and off the water repeatedly.
While the unit is less susceptible to lime scale build-up than other units on the
market, always consider water quality in the installation. We strongly recommend
treating hard water and adjusting the pH between 6.5 and 8.5. As a reference,
Table 5 represents some of the drinking water guidelines published by the US
EPA. Consult a water treatment adviser in your area to assess your local needs.
Proper water treatment will aid in the longevity of the unit and ensure maximum
efficiencies."0 -
I would avoid boilers with aluminum on the water side of the hx. IBC, Nvien, and Noritz were the 3 I get confused with, one is bad and the other 2 are ok.
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Yes. 2 Separate copper coils in a block. Water only touches the copper.
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That's pretty neat.
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I kind of struggle with this question. There many factors that go into this equation.
Ease of working on internally is a big one for me.
Support- when u call tech support is it 30, 40 minutes or much more on hold to get assistance or even make a warranty claim.
Rep support - Our local wholesalers are all pretty good, but dont have the teeth the boiler reps can have when its a problem that is persistent and not on the installer or homeowner, so if you have a good rep thats another plus.
Local support - wholesaler well stocked with parts, basically all parts internally
Cost - I understand you get what you pay for but thats not the current thinking with manufacturing. It seems like they build as cheap as possible and ease of mass production and send it, deal with the fall out later. So I will pay a bit more for better. Most of my customers will too, but then when it has a failure in the first 2-3 months, they start getting pissy that they paid more for this… (GV90 rectifier issues)
Installation- we all know when properly piped, when controlled well, and when sized appropriately we get a lot of time from a good boiler. So that is a factor as well.
Tom
Montpelier Vt1 -
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