Leaking Valve on 1/2 Cooper
This valve located on a 1/2 copper pipe started leaking after I tried to close it to shut off the water supply to a pipe. Where can I purchase a replacement or get a rebuild kit for it?
Comments
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just standard bib washer and string packing for the packing. can you get the screw out? clean out the slot, use a screwdriver the size of the whole slot that fits tightly, press really hard and turn more gently and carefully. probably would help if you clamp the stem in a vise, protecting it with some wood or a rag. use a stainless screw to replace the screw, can either get it in the plumbing section or with the hardware out of the bins.
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Are you referring to a screw on the end on this photo "img-3813" Not sure what is on the end of this? I could not really see anything. Assuming this is where the bib washer is located? I definitely need the string packing.
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Can't tell from the picture but the rubber washer looks like it is missing. Sometimes there is a springy rivet type thing that holds the washer in place and not a screw, it just pulls out. Rubber washers come in many sizes, you may have to match it to the stem.
Inspect the valve seat also, should not be any odd grooves or irregularities. There are tools to dress the seat if needed, often the seat can be replaced if you can get it out.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I am interested in what this tool is. Also when you say valve seat you are talking about the part that touches where that black rubber part touches? The part that I am unsure if there is a screw holding it on or not.
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This is an image of the entire valve.
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Sadly I can't find an example of the valve seat dressing tool, apparently no one does that any more, they most likely just replace the whole valve.
With the leak in the picture (3801), I would have just snugged up the packing nut a bit. If that did not work I would have closed the valve (assuming it was installed in the correct direction), removed the handle, removed the packing nut, cleaned up the stem, replaced the packing material with the Teflon string and re-secured the packing nut. Once the Teflon string packing is compressed it may need another application for best seal.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
that type of valve usually doesn't have a removable seat. unless the valve was left closed and leaking a significant amount for a long time the seat usually doesn't get damaged but if it were to be damaged, replacement is probably the best option.
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The scerw, or what is left of it holds the washer on, which seems to be missing but your picture is underexposed so I can't really tell what is going on with the screw or washer. You probably need to buy the washer out of the bins at a hardware store, the assortments usually don't have washers that big.
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Although it is hard to tell, I'd say the rubber washer is missing. I believe the rubber washer usually sits higher than the metal outer ring. With the shadow on the Right it looks like the washer is missing.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Seat dresser tools are a short time fix. The brass gets brittle after time and chips easily.
A trick with old or damaged seats is to use a washer with some taper. It goes down into the hole in the seat and gets you more surface contact.
Some thread locker on the screw to keep it from backing out.
Some of the nicer monel bib screws have a nylon locker tab built in Hodes, PM Brass offered them. If they are still around?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
That is clutch : A trick with old or damaged seats is to use a washer with some taper. It goes down into the hole in the seat and gets you more surface contact.
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what looks like a broken off or eroded screw in the steam is probably the hard part here.
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Right that would be the most difficult. Depending on how this goes my plan B is to install a ball valve that connects with a shark bite.
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you might be able to grab it and turn it with diagonal cutters or drill it and get it out with an easy out or you certainly could drill it to the next size and tap it.
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Thanks for these suggestions. I will give them a try.
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or possibly cut a slot in it with a dremmel and unscrew it but be careful you don't damage the rest of it doing that. I still can't tell from the picture if the bib washer screw is there or has part of a head or is broken off altogether. you can also get "no rotate" washers that snap in to the hole in the stem instead of being threaded.
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] SOLVED SOLUTION [
Here is better photo of the broken off screw.
After removing the valve I just used a little heat to get the knob off. That flat head screw was not coming off. Then I was able to remove old gasket material and clean out with a Dremel and small brass wire wheel. Used packing string as the new gasket three revolutions and install it. No more leaks and I never driller out the broken off screw and retapped it. I ran out of time. It is a useless shut off valve that no longer leaks. If time was not an issue it would have been done right! I hate doing things like this but I cannot control timelines and other people priorities.
Thanks for the help everyone.
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you might be able to get that bib screw out with a hand impact driver like this:
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Never knew they made a 1/4 impact screw driver like this before. I have the larger version. Thanks for this tool suggestion. I could see how I will use this in the future and could have used it in the past. Consider it purchased. Also the client just wanted it to stop leaking and forget about the shut off functionality for now.
Love your tool suggestions @mattmia2 .
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the big one should work too with the right adapters and bits but it is a bit awkward to use on something that small. i usually forget i have it until after i have dealt with it some other way.
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