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Wood Burning Insert Recommendations

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stevetars
stevetars Member Posts: 32
edited December 4 in Biomass

Hi everyone,

I am looking to get a wood burning insert for my current fireplace. The fireplace is tapered but decent depth and height. I want non-catalytic- simple, well built, and powerful enough to heat my first floor. Looking to offset heating bill and have something in a pinch for outages and cooktop possibly if I do not do flush mounted. I'm looking at the Regency I2450, but really am just beginning my search. Not sure if this is the right forum but if any of you are wood stove enthusiasts, I would appreciate your expertise on best brands and simplest well built models.

Thanks,

Steve

Comments

  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,137

    I sell the i2450 and its a solid, basic non-cat stove. No frills, just heat. I recommend you consider who the local authorized dealer is in case you need warranty support or parts. You can get just about any stove brand if you try hard enough but who is going to support it and who is authorized to sell it? Buy local. Talk to your local chimney sweep. Make sure you understand how it is to be swept from below. Some stoves can only be swept from above. Install the insert of a series of 1/8" steel rods like rollers. This allows easy installation and removal by one man. Remember you need 16" noncombustible floor protection from the face of the stove and observe mantel clearances or install a ventilated heat shield per NFPA 211. The chimney should have a level II inspection prior to relining anyway.

    Any of the current name brand stoves are very good. By meeting the EPA emissions stds. and a Higher Heating Value of about 75% or better they all have to be good. Just don't buy some cheap-o Chinese box.

    Plan on an insulated smooth wall 316Lss liner. Regency approves a 5.5" liner for two stories but don't do it. Ise a full 6" round. Break out flue tile to make room if need be. If it must exceed 2 stories, install a barometric damper right off the top so it doesn't overdraft. A baro is a good idea on any stove but they don't speak of it because it costs about 0.5 efficiency points in the testing. Get a moisture meter and use it. Split the wood and test the heart in several places. You want no more than 20% mc. corrected for temperature. Stuff the stove full of wood once you have established a hot bed of coals then burn it hot. If it doesn't scare you, you aren't burning correctly. It should remind you of a washing machine with that boiling, chaotic churning flame.

    HTH

  • stevetars
    stevetars Member Posts: 32

    Hi Bob,

    Thank you for this super thorough response. That's what I have been reading about the i2450 and what I'm learning towards. We had the level 2 chimney inspection, and did the necessary repairs. I definitely want to buy local from a dealer who also does installations so it can be under warranty and I have someone to call if need be. We have 26 inches of brick noncombustible floor protection, but our chimney sweep was not sure if it would pass inspection. Adding a picture here. I'm not familiar with the installing of the insert of a series of 1/8'' steel rods. Also, just confirming- you are recommending to go with a 316 liner which is 6'' round and to install a barometric damper at the top of the liner/chimney? I'm still new to this so I am unsure of some of the parts.

    Thanks again,

    Steve

    Fireplace 2.jpg

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