Suntec Fuel Pump Troubleshooting

BrooklynMike

I am having a problem getting my Carlin EZ1 burner to fire. The oil burner was turned off since May because I have a HVAC system with a Heat Pump and an electric hot water heater. I did the basic tune up( new filter at then tank, new pump screen ,new nozzle , cleaned out fire box, heat exchanger, flue pipe). Burner would not fire after repeated cycles. Used a push pull pump to verify oil at the Fireamatic input valve on the oil pump. No oil at the pump output, no oil at the pump bleed valve. . The pump motor coupling looks okay but I do have a new one to install. Also, I do have a new pump to install but before I do that are there some simple checks I can do to confirm pump condition. Pump is a Suntec A2AV 3006B, Oil Burner is a Carlin EZ1 HPW in a Weil McLain WGTO4 boiler. There is a Webster Oil Safety Valve on the bottom feed of a 275 gal basement oil tank. The oil burner has a start up cycle that repeats until the burner fires steadily. Thanks.

Big Ed_4

Pump is good , it needs oil in the pump to pull a vacuum to open the OSV .. Put oil into the pump… No teflon tape…

BrooklynMike

Big Ed_4,

I am good with you comment and suggestion. How do I put oil into the pump? There is a Firematic Valve on the pump input. I have had concerns about the OSV not opening. This is why I used my push pull pump to get oil to the inlet of the firematic valve Can I push oil into the pump and have in come out the bleed valve when the pump is not running to prime the pump or have the pump running? Thanks

Big Ed_4

There is a hole on the OSV cover to temporarily open the valve ..

EBEBRATT-Ed

Could be the pump coupling slipping. Shut power odd mark air band setting and open-air band open transformer and hold pump shaft with pliers while turning fan.

If you have oil at the pump inlet open the bleeder port you should get a steady stream. I didn't look does the pump have an oil solenoid? If you get oil at the bleeder and not at the nozzle port it could be th e solenoid. prime the OSV by putting a paper clip in the hole. You might have air in the osv after changing filter

BrooklynMike

EBEBRATT-Ed, I do have a solenoid valve and I checked the coil and it is 440 ohms which is a good number for the coil.

Big Ed_4, I know about the hole in the OSV valve cover. It's installed with the cover on the bottom. Used an inspection mirror to see it. Did put a thin nail but didn't feel much give or play. Will try again.

Big Ed_4

Cut off the point and you have to hold unless you have the tool..

BrooklynMike

EBEBRATT-Ed, Should oil flow from the bleeder valve when the pump is not operating when I open the OSV valve with a paperclip due to gravity oil pressure from the bottom feed from the tank. Thanks

EdTheHeaterMan

I need to see a picture of the OSV, the fuel pump and the firomatic valve.   With those three pictures from far enough back to know how the parts are connected to the rest of the fuel line, I can tell you how to check the fuel pump.  You will need a pressure gauge that goes up to 300 PSI and a vacuum gauge that will measure all the way down to 29.92" Hg. vacuum (most gauges will just say 30), and the fittings to connect the gauges to the fuel pump. 

Lets see those photos

EBEBRATT-Ed

If you open the bleeder and hold the osv open the bleeder will just drip

BrooklynMike

EBEBRATT-Ed,

I was able to open and keep open the OSV with a 4d finish nail , small block of wood and a small wood clamp. Yes, I did get oil dripping from from the bleeder valve. But, still no oil to the nozzle at the pump outlet. Did install a new motor coupling because I did buy it and it is low cost. So, at this point I have a new pump to install . Checked the solenoid coil and it's at 440 ohms and is 115VAC from the junction box with fairly robust wiring that looks in good shape. Any suggestions? Thanks to all.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Could be a plugged up OSV, filter or oil line. You could remove the OSV temporally then you should get flow to the pump as long as the filter and oil line are clear.

BrooklynMike

I have a Push Pull Pump that I used already at the burner end of the oil supply line I got a good flow through the OSV and the new filter I just installed when this adventure began. Did get some black crud that settled out in the jar. My only issue is that when I installed the new pump, I need to adjust it to 140psi for this burner /boiler combination. Need to get pressure gauge kit. BTW, does anyone know a source for short lengths of the Kamco 3/8 oil safety line (orange jacket). I need about 20' and only see 50' rolls for sale for about $160.00. I right now have the old style 3/8 bare copper tubing running along the corner of the basement floor and walls and it's two pieces with a flare to flare joint in the middle. Thanks

EBEBRATT-Ed

As far as the oil line goes I don't think you can buy less than 50 feet. If it's run on top of the floor I don't believe you need the orange jacket because the oil line is visible but it needs protection. You could run it in electrical conduit but the flare nuts will not fit. use 3/4".

You can probably get 1 160 or 200 psi gauge somewhere and a couple of fittings to hook it up. An old 1/4 x 1/4 flare refrigeration hose works good.

BrooklynMike

To All,

In the end, the oil pump was the problem. As I had mentioned earlier, whenever I turned off power to the oil burner, it took several burner cycles to get a flame started. My gut feeling was that it was taking several cycles for the pump to pull vacuum to open the OSV valve. With the new pump, the burner fires on the first cycle. Thanks to all for the help.