Air Scoop/HyVent Leaking
Hello all,
I have a radiant floor system off a natural gas boiler that was installed in 2006. I am the third owner of the home and have 'managed' this system since 2019. I have had a very, very hard time finding a competent company that knows anything about these systems. The company that installed it does not do so any longer or service them.
I have a split system. One manifold that serves the zones in the basement, and another that serves the main floor of the house located in the garage. In the basement there is a Taco VorTech VRTX125-3 air scoop with a factory installed HyVent 419-1 on top.
About a month ago this combo starting leaking from the vent cap. Not a little. A lot. I shut off the isolation valves, and then shut off the boiler. Started things back up about 15 minutes later and it stopped leaking.
This little dance continued for a few more nights (I have a remote water sensor tied into my security system that I put below the scoop/vent) and I called the one company that sort of seems like they know what they are doing? Long story short, he opened up the HyVent, cleaned it out, and said that should do it. It did not. He said I probably need a new vent.
Okay, I ordered one from Supply House. Swapped out the cap and the internals of the existing one because of the design of the air scoop (see picture), and I'm thinking we are done here. That was 2 days ago and we are not done here. Started leaking again last night. This seems to be a pattern too. I think this is when the first of the zones upstairs are calling for heat the boiler comes on.
Anyway, does anyone know why this air scoop/air vent combo is now trying to identify as a water feature??
My system pressures seems normal (15-20 psi when hot). My temps are in the 120-125 range. Both manifold pressure and temp gauges appear to be working and normal. Gauges at the boiler all reading normal. My expansion tank bladder seems fine (water on top, air on bottom when doing the knuckle test).
I'm going to call the company that I use to come back for yet another 'service call', but I have very low confidence at this point on their diagnostic abilities.
Thanks for any help or advice. I've posted some pics. If anyone wants any other views or closer pics of components, etc. just let me know.
Comments
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Those HyVents are notorious leakers and your guy did the right thing. Seems as though you have a lot of debris in your system that fouls the valve which then leaks.
In a perfect world, you should install a DirtMag to remove the debris. For the time being, screw down the cap on the Schrader valve to stop the leak and only open it up once or twice a year to vent air and then close it again.
That looks like a Danfoss Zone Control panel.
Twenty years is pretty good for your Munchkin to still be working. You must clean the heat exchanger regularly? I'd be looking to replace it next summer to be on the safe side, especially with a radiant system. It doesn't look like an easy job - very little room.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
Alan,
Yes, this is such a small space with a 80 gallon indirect water heater off to the one side, water softener right up front with salt tank, incoming well water expansion tank, etc. It's a zoo. This maintenance room could be twice the size and it's still too small.
Okay, so even though the HyVent is new it's probably clogged already? I'll look into the DirtMag.
Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.
-1 -
you should be able to remove just the top of the float vent. Inside a rubber seal and a needle type valve, easy to clean.
Although you may need to drains down or isolate it somehow.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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