Copper Nickel brake line for Roth P/U Tube.

TomI_NAMA1

Just a thought. Replacing a 60 y/o steel oval tank with a Roth 275. Line is overhead and not long enough to strip and sleeve into tank. Could I use a 3/8” Copper/Nickel brake line as a pickup tube in the bottom of the bushing? I would cut the line to size and replace the male flare not with a female. Thoughts?

mattmia2

Technically it wouldn't be listed in the code as an approved material. It would be fine but it would violate code. You could use copper tubing in the same manner.

TomI_NAMA1

But would it work? I don’t have a flaring tool and the brake line is already flared.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I don't think brake lines are the same flare. Flaring tools are cheap enough. You probably need a firomatic valve at the tank anyhow

TomI_NAMA1

yes Firematic on the top of the bushing where the existing oil line would attach. I was talking on the bottom of the bushing for a pickup line.

mattmia2

I think they are the same flare(sae is double flare but double and single flare are mechanically interchangeable but double flare is a higher pressure rating) but sae flare uses an internal flare nut and hvac/plumbing usually uses an external flare nut. a good auto parts store or gas station would probably flare a piece of copper for you. as @EBEBRATT-Ed said, off brand or e-bay flaring tools are cheap.

EBEBRATT-Ed

I don't know what Roth uses for a bushing. If it is double tapped (top and bottom is tapped you could use pipe for the drop piece.

The other thing you can use is a compression type fitting used with the oil tank "double tapped bushing where you just slide the tubing straight through the compression fitting. I don't know if they can be bought separately. Supply House .com may have them you could buy the bushing and save the fittings and toss the bushing.

You can also use a standard compression fitting that has a stop inside for the tubing and drill it out with a 3/8" drill bit and slide the tubing through

I just checked on Becketts web site and you can buy the fittings only. Part #s are below

Part No.	Description
14440	Compression Nut For 14434
14454	Compression Nut 3/8”
14455	Compression Nut 1/2”
14461	Compression Sleeve 3/8”
14462	Compression Sleeve 1/2”
14482	Slip Thru Fitting 3/8”C X 3/8”IPS
14483	Slip Thru Fitting 3/8”C X 1/2”IPS
14484	Slip Thru Fitting 1/2”C X 1/2”IPS
14485	Slip Thru Fitting 5/8”C X 1/2”IPS

HVACNUT

When you say "sleeve", you mean running the tubing through the top of the double tap bushing? With a compression adapter to lock it in place? Is there a 1/2" rigid pipe threaded to the underside of the bushing so the tubing is forced straight down, rather than curling?

That rigid pipe (L copper or galvanized) can be used as the pick-up tube itself. No need to sleeve through. Just put a flare adapter on the top side, and its a sealed connection. I did my Roth that way.

HydronicMike

Baffled by why you don’t want to do it the right way? Get a new piece of copper, stick it in and attach the right way.
Flare it, put the filter or just a firomatic there, connect to existing oil line.

EdTheHeaterMan

@TomI_NAMA1

Without preaching the features and benefits of using what we all use because we have that stuff readily available in our service van, the answer to your query is YES.

I rarely ever use the threaded underside of the double tapped tank bushing. I usually just slide the 3/8" copper inside a compression fitting that is designed for that purpose. There is no inner shoulder so the copper will slide thru and extend to the bottom of the tank. However there are times that, for some reason or another, when you need to get the job done and the standard material is unavailable, so you use whatever is available at the time. So go for the break line. There is nothing harmful in the copper nickel alloy that will harm the fuel oil or be harmed by the fuel oil.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Sliding the tubing straight through the compression connector avoids a potential leak source. Compression is not allowed on oil but in this case it is just a sealing connection not an actual tubing joint. You would still have to flare the new tubing to join to the existing

HVACNUT

I've gone back on numerous pipe jobs where the line wasn't sleeved through hard pipe, causing the tubing to curl. A few caused the gauge float to hang up. There's a reason the taps are on the underside of the bushing.