Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Zone Valve malfunction?

Options
Miata
Miata Member Posts: 51
in THE MAIN WALL
20250728_095313.jpg

I was in our bedroom and heard the baseboard element make the expansion noise w air conditioning on. Felt the pipe and it was warm. Checked the thermostat and it was set at 60. In the basement I felt pipe above Honeywell zone valve, and it was hot for at least 4ft before it starts its rise to 2nd fl. Temp on pipe on outlet side of 1st floor zone valve was slighty warm. Move lever on zone valve and it functions against spring to off position. I am trying to figure how water is getting passed a closed vave. I have an indirect water heater so circulator does come on and it seems this is when it happened. Is it possible that water is passing around a pitted or broken ball inside the valve? Thank you

diego

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,262

    I would disconnect and mark the wires to the zone valve to eliminate an electrical issue and see what happens

    mattmia2
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,365

    the copper pipe will conduct some heat, how far away is it warm?

    The stop ball inside those valves can deteriorate or get a groove worn in it. Then the slowly seep heat through

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,566

    what is the temp on the pipe around the zone valve for the baseboard in question? It isn't clear if the 1st floor valve you refer to is the zone in question or another zone. you can get gravity flow in the return under some conditions too.

  • Miata
    Miata Member Posts: 51

    The 1st floor zone valve is directly below the 2nd floor valve in the picture. The distance from the 2nd floor valve in question to element is about 13 ft then runs horizontal along bedroom wall. Turned up thermostat on indirect to make burner fire and circulator run. Zone valve to 2nd floor does not open which correct which leads me to believe the ball in valve is slowly letting water pass since the pipe is hot about 140 degrees next to the valve but element on 2nd floor is warm enough to cause expansion of pipe. Return from 2nd floor is not warm which leads me to believe water seeps pass ball in valve enough to warm 2nd floor pipe when circulator if on but not enough to cause the remaining 50 ft of pipe to get hot. The water temp next to outlet of 1st floor valve is only room temp.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,772

    the least expensive fix it to purchase a new valve and use the part that is defective. You can use the existing motor and the existing valve body so you don't need to solder any pipes. There was a kit with just that part you need, but i don't know who might have that part in stock.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,772

    Looks like SupplyHouse com has them

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Home-40003918-006-2-Way-Powerhead-Conversion-Kit-Water

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Miata
    Miata Member Posts: 51

    Thank you. I just ordered from supply house the entire head w motor and ball since I fell better having an extra motor assembly w end switch, etc.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 13,566

    There were 2 different versions of that valve, not sure if the new parts will fit the old body without the kit to adapt it.

Categories