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Cork and Radiant slab

TAG
TAG Member Posts: 788

I'm wondering if it's even possible to get cork to work over a radiant slab?

I had a "white" concrete floor installed for a project a few years back and the original general contractor (who I fired) never properly supervised the install and it did not work out well. I have done about all I can to make it look like something but it's just not cutting it … I have given lots of thought to grinding and then satining or epoxy but it's not really my look and finding someone is another problem.

The original design from the architect was for a cork floor .. but that was as much for looks and warm under foot. The radiant for the slab was not in the picture at that point. In my mind I'm picturing it as the equalivent as putting a layer of foam board down and then my slab is not going to work. I'm afraid to screw up what is a fantastic working system.

I know I have seen cork floors in midcentury homes with radiant in places but those homes always had lots of glass high heat loss and the floors were running hot … my floor is using low temp water all throughout the house.

My fear is cork is not a good idea .. it would look great in the space.

Comments

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 961

    It's very likely that cork will work just fine although you will have to increase the water temperature. How much depends on a lot of factors. The increase in water temp is probably worth it if the end result is more to your liking.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    EdTheHeaterManAlan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,992

    The cork floor tiles I used were only about 1/4" thick, so it did not reduce output, if you just increase SWT a few-5°

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    skyking1
  • Cork has a high R-value: 3.6-4.0 per inch, but the flooring I've seen is thin, like hot rod's. At 1/4", you're looking at R=1 which is absolutely fine.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • TAG
    TAG Member Posts: 788

    Thanks for the comments …

    The house runs on one temp water based on the needs of the the Warmboard that makes up most of the SF coverage of the place. I did make provisions to control the slab areas of the house because I feared they would over heat. .. that ended up not being an issue. I'm not sure I can just raise the water temp …. now the rest of the house will over heat. Have to think about that

    I guess the next question will be — how to attach them. I wonder if glue would still work .. the floor never gets very hot