Laars EBP Endurance boiler question

HeatingHelp

This discussion was created from comments split from: Laars Endurance EBP flow switch needs to be replaced - but how?.

traceyr8

Hi all! We have a Laars EBP Endurance boiler, model # EBP-DOM-110N and are trying to decide what to do next re: flow switch and I stumbled upon this old thread. Earlier this year we had a leak and hired a plumber to replace 30-117 ( Elbow ½”OD) - picture below - which is where the leak was coming from and connects to the flow switch. Despite confirming the exact part with Laars customer service, for some reason it didn't fit when we went to install! (It was too short)

Now, I have an expensive, unusable piece and want to avoid buying more parts that may not work, for an outdated boiler.

So, the plumber did a few things to fix the leak problem (using the existing elbow and flow switch) and left.

Turns out he didn't install it back correctly (flow switch was upside down) and we frustratingly had to fix it on our own. As he played around with the flow switch, I'm unsure if it's led to the issue we are currently facing: Hot water only calls/comes when the heater of our apartment is turned on/up.

Options I think we have:

1. Remove current flow switch and try to "clean" it - honestly don't even know if that's possible or smart to do
2. Buy a new old-model flow switch, and hope it fits when replacing the current one.
3. Upgrade to the new type (R2028200) which was discussed earlier in this thread.

I would love to go with option #2 as it's cheaper and less work, but am afraid of the new piece not fitting and having yet another $$$ boiler piece I have no use for. Open to option #3 if 1) it will make life easier going forward and 2) is easy to do on our own.

HOWEVER:

1) I'm not a plumber, and my husband is the one who has been doing all the tinkering with the boiler so far. He's not excited about option 3 and would want to hire someone but I'm no longer trusting of a "regular" plumber so am not sure how to find one w/experience with replacing this piece on this exact boiler….

2) I've seen this youtube video of someone who kindly showed how he replaced the flow switch to R2028200. He removed the left side of the unit and did a bunch of soldering. Problem is, ours sits in a small boiler room and the unit is nearly flush to a wall so there is no way we can do that or get access to that side. And I have no idea how to solder things, nor would I feel comfortable. Is there an easier way to upgrade?

Hoping for some guidance on what to do, and if upgrading to R2028200 can be done without sawing, soldering, and sweating a bunch. :) Thanks so much!

HeatingHelp.com

@traceyr8, welcome to Heating Help! I've created a new discussion for you here so that your post doesn't get lost at the bottom of an old thread and to prevent confusion. Thanks.

hot_rod

Many of those boilers use a Sika flow switch. Simple to disassemble and check with a continuity meter. It is a simple reed switch, not much to go wrong with them. More often that not, it fails do to inadequate flow.

There should be a label on the switch showing the "setpoint" flow rate.

I see that switch on numerous websites.

traceyr8

Hi Bob - thanks for taking the time to reply. Our current set up doesn't have that switch. Below is what it looks like. I think the replacement model has what you pointed out.