Boiler acting up again

The_Comedian

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846781#Comment_1846781

I agree with Ed. The HVAC guy I had coming over said the exact same thing that Ed said. High priced it out and estimated that it would probably be about $ to $ Just for a new boiler that's not even the installation cost and any parts that they would want to replace/upgrade.

I like the idea of Ed saying if any of you guys want to step up and help me pay for it I'll start a GoFundMe lol.

In all serious though, That gas valve cost me about $140. If I have to replace the aquistat that's going to be about $400. Total cost of the vent brush that I got was $13. So as of right now I spent less than $200, I've had the boiler running overnight woke up this morning to a nice warm house, knock on wood, hopefully that was the issue. As it was stated a few posts back that heat exchange being clogged could have caused a lot of my problems. And it was pretty damn bad. As I started cleaning it out I could finally start seeing light shining through from the other side when I could not see that initially. As of right now time's going to tell whether that was the main issue or whether I have to move on to but you guys believe might have been the aquastat when this problem first arose.

I would like to thank everybody for your time and patience, and also your knowledge. I definitely have a better understanding of how the system works and for that I'm grateful. I'll keep everyone posted.

EdTheHeaterMan

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846817#Comment_1846817

YES

Limiting the high temperature the boiler can get to will save on fuel. that is why you might choose to lower the Hi Limit from say, 180° to 160°. that will reduce overall cost to operate for 2 reasons.

1. It takes more fuel to make the water hotter
2. After the call for heat is over (if you don't have a thermal purge setup) all that higher temperature will not get into the home and just sit there in the boiler that is connected to the vent. That will all of the boiler's higher temperature to cool off and be wasted to the outdoors.

This is the reason outdoor reset is such a good idea. The boiler only gets as hot as needed for the particular outdoor temperature, so less heat is vented to the outdoors.

The_Comedian

Hey everyone,

I just wanted to drop by with an update. As Ed had helped me diagnose, it was in fact the aquastat. The old one was having issues with the relay, There might have been other issues with it as well, but I know that there was definitely an issue with that because every time the heater would reach the high temp cutoff, that was set to 180°, and the thermostat was still calling for heat, it would not supply power to the circulator pump to continue to circulate the water through the baseboard pipes. If I turned the power off to the boiler for 15 minutes or longer and turned it back on it would work and send power to the circulator pump if the thermostat was still calling for heat after it reached the high temp cutoff, now this would only work the first time after turning it back on and even then it seemed hit or miss.

Ed did help me to find a less expensive aquastat instead of matching the Honeywell that was on there. The price difference was almost half of what the Honeywell priced at. Here's a link in case if anybody may need it for future reference.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Hydrolevel-48-3200-Model-3200-Plus-Fuel-Smart-Hydrostat-for-Gas-Boilers-Temperature-Limit-LWCO-Boiler-Reset-Control

It's been almost A week since I installed it, I wanted to wait a while before coming back to here and posting the resolution. I also wanted to thank everybody for providing me with any help and information you had, helping me further understand my boiler, and the maintenance then I'll make sure to complete from this point forward.

Thank you.